table lamp usb charger
Wouldn\'t it be easier if you could plug your phone into a desk lamp?
This project is based on 12 v LED desk lamp and 5 v usb dc 7 v-
24 v to 5 v 3A step-down converter module.
Depending on the desk lamp you use to store the charger f, your design will vary, so the required parts and equipment will vary.
Here is a generic list based on what we are using, it is incomplete but should give you a good idea.
Parts: tools and equipment: of course, you also need a place to work, it\'s better not to do this at the table unless you want to explain why the soldering iron burns!
So the first thing we have to do is figure out how much space we need to use.
The base of our lamp is covered with a bonded rubber cover and we trim the exposed part inside the base.
At first glance, there is not much space inside, most of which are occupied by a large weight, and the only way this will fit inside is to remove the weight and cut some of it off.
To reduce the risk of damaging things, we recommend that you remove the lights at this stage, start by removing the wires from the socket and work slowly.
After figuring out the position of everything, we now need to drill a hole to turn on the switch of the light.
Start with a small bit, say 4mm, and then turn it on in stages according to the size required by the switch.
Unfortunately we don\'t have a drill bit larger than 10mm, so we opened the hole with Dremel.
A better solution is to drill step by step.
Next, we need to cut a slot for the usb socket, and we have drilled several holes in the chain that are connected to the burrs in Dremel.
Finally, we sorted everything out with one or two documents.
At first, we were going to reduce the weight to fit the electronics, but after trying to cut with a fiber disc in Dremel, we decided to adopt a more disruptive option, with a hammer and two pieces of debris, mainly because it produces less dust.
After doing this, we began to dry everything together and found that the threaded tube with LED light fitting wires also blocked the weight.
Fortunately, as we know, a longer period of time is required to hold the weight in place, and cutting the tube with a cut-off disc is a simple task.
So now just weld the wire directly from the socket to the USB step-down converter to make sure the positive pole on the socket (
In our case, central sales)
Go to the positive side of the board.
We choose to weld the wires to the circuit board, but you can use the screw terminals provided.
Then, in our case, you need to take a wire from the front of the socket to switch, and a wire from the front of the lamp to switch.
Then connect the ground from the light to the ground of the socket.
We have provided a chart, but it is very simple, as you know.
Finally, at this stage, it\'s just a problem to fix everything together using melt glue.
Once we gave the lamp base a quick wipe with some multi-surface cleaner and carefully checked everything that was installed inside, it was time for us to finish the base and we used some sticky backing feel, but you may replace the original base cover if you are careful.
First, we plugged in the original AC adapter that came with the light, the flick switch, and the light went on working as it should!
We turned off the switch and it turned off.
We confidently tried the usb port to charge the phone, which also worked!
Then we try to turn on the lights at the same time because we are worried that the lights are out.
Fortunately, this is a simple solution to replace the adapter with a higher current model, the model that comes with the lamp is only 150 mA, we changed from the printer to the 2000 mA adapter, everything works alone at the same time.