standing desk pulley lamps

by:Merttace     2019-11-27
In this instruction, I will take you through the steps I have taken to build a pair of lamps mechanically attached to my electric standing table;
The lights also rise or fall when the table goes up or down.
BackgroundI is looking for an artistic and creative way to light up my new Jarvis table for a few weeks until I stumble across a photo of a belt light on Etsy and then, on the back of the napkin, the project took shape soon.
The physicists in my heart can\'t resist the pulley, and the engineers in my heart like a very clear, well-lit job --
Space for drafting.
I used three pulleys for each light and their ropes ran from the light to the bottom of the table.
When the table comes up, it will pull the wire and raise the light to the same distance.
I originally planned to use the pipe as a ledge as in the photo, but it was hard to get all the material from the old wire and supply, so I decided to use only red oak;
I think it looks better and it only took about 20 hours to build.
I originally planned to light up the desktop with a roll of high CRI Flexfire led but I love the look and color temperature of vintage bulbs and I love the look of vintage bulbs
Led is my dimmable task lighting and incandescent lamp is my key lighting.
Overall, the project took about 45 hours to build, design, prototype and replace the burnt drill bit.
If you copy my design directly, this project will require basic woodworking and welding skills and great patience;
The LEDs in the welding lights are a 6 hour process and I spent most of the day drilling holes on the pulley arm without any tearingout.
Of course, in order to meet your project needs, you can modify this structure in countless ways.
PARTSLED StripsFlexfire is the highest quality LED light strip on the market.
They are an order of magnitude brighter than the LED light bars you find on Amazon, but they are an order of magnitude more expensive.
If you subscribe to their newsletter they sometimes offer a 20% coupon which I bought for me.
In this project, I used 16ft LEDs in total, totaling 6,609 lumens.
12VDC 8A power adapters do not buy these from Flexfire, they are half the price of the Amazon wireless LED dimmer, all cheap dimmers, including this dimmer, are PWM dimmers.
If you plan on doing any video work under these lights, you\'ll want to use a linear step-down voltage regulator so your video doesn\'t flash.
Vintage incandescent bulbs are available all over the place and I have purchased parts from vintage wire and supply companies so I ordered bulbs from them.
Spherical bulbs beautifully reflect light from LEDs.
Recessed brass shadeVintage Wire & Supply offers a wide range of sizes, metal and paint work.
I like the look of the brass, but hate that it is so easily stained;
If you don\'t want black fingerprints everywhere, you really have to deal with them with gloves.
To save a little money, buy 4 packs of antique brass pulley wheels.
Make sure to buy UNO sockets, these are threaded sockets.
ParacordMil-brass strain reliefSpec WireMIL-W-
The 22759/16 wire is a commonly used wire in the home aircraft community, with a rated temperature of up to 150 ° c and can carry up to 5A (for 22 awg)
600 V, it does not burn, it is very wear-resistant and most importantly you can buy it with your feet.
In this project, I have very demanding requirements for the wire, which perfectly meets these requirements: in the prototyping process of this project, I am ad-hoc with cheap PVC insulation 22 although it works well, I am hesitant to use it due to its poor wear resistance and lack of maximum voltage ratings.
There are several easy short circuit positions inside the lamp (
On the 12VDC side)
6 months from now I don\'t want to deal with the pain of digging it to fix it.
Red OakI is a very newbie carpentry and it\'s just my second hardwood floor project and the first one is the table it lights up so I just pick up my at the local hardware store
There is no special requirement for red oak, I just want it to match the table. 13/32\" x 0.
You can buy these things in a local hobby store.
3/8 \"OD Nickle tubeI originally planned to use it for the manufacture of the entire arm assembly.
I just cut it into pieces to install the pulley.
Switch any switch is OK, but the switch for the old wire and power supply looks cool and fits perfectly with the theme, especially the matching knob and lid (below).
This is the magic double stick tape they use on the action camera holder.
I can\'t recommend this kind of thing strongly enough, I use it more than tape.
There are many uses for this video from Jimmy director.
BrassoKapton TapeMinwax pre-
Honey dyed wax wipe-
On the solid core wiring terminals of PolyurthaneWood screws or pins and wood glue24 ad hoc working group, the safety line dry wall anchor and the ironing plate zipper bracket and zipper patch panel (
With protective cover)
Dry Wall anchor drill pre-cutting belt-
Sawwood cutting belt-saw (a hack-saw will work)
Welding terminals crimpersHelping handsWire cutterWire strippersScribe center punch3/month \"flat wing bit13/32\" drill bitMy light fixture to be full of fingerprints and very corrupt, so I picked up a bottle of cable and wiped them clean.
Alternatively, you can put an antique finish on it.
During the whole process, when you polish the lights and put on gloves, these things are finger printing magnets.
I was very worried about short the LED light strip to the conductive brass light, so I added a layer of Kapton tape to the interior of the shadow, where I will make all my solder joints.
The following are the specifications of the LED light strip: Place a light strip every 15 degrees.
The easiest way to lay out is as follows: All LED light strips are connected parallel to the 24 Ad Hoc Working Group solid core wires.
Alternatively, Flexfire LEDs do make connectors designed to slide into the end of the LED strip (link)
But I\'m worried about how much volume this would add to this rather narrow space, which is why I chose to weld it.
I am a trade electrical engineer so I have the best helper in the market (link).
I would strongly consider using Flexfire connectors if I didn\'t have these helpers because it would be very tedious without them.
I put on the brass lampshade intermittently from the far end of the LED light strip, so I added a layer of Kapton tape to the end of the light strip, which solved the problem.
With a 3 m adhesive backing that acts as an insulator between a copper contact and something glued to, but at the end of the belt, mfg.
Put them together (every few feet)
, The insulation does not always cover the contacts, so it is shorts. 1.
The desk configuration is measured to determine how long the wires will take. (
I used 18ft with a lot of margin)2. De-
Core 550 paracord (
Remove the stock)3.
Hello, four ears-W-22759/16-
22 The wire is inserted into the sub-sheath, and the Inch Worm passes through the shell.
This is not a quick process because it fits perfectly.
My color code: Purple-Hot White -Neutral Red -
12VDC black-
12VDC return, connect the 12VDC wire to the LEDs on the shaded surface I wired between the socket and the socket insulation housing.
If the electrician saw this, they might be pointing their finger at me.
I admit that this is a little grass figure because the socket is very hot and it is charged.
I took two steps to make this safer and to the point where I felt comfortable: If this route makes you uncomfortable, you can attach the wire through the hole on the shadow holder to the LEDs before strain elimination, but the wire will be exposed.
I am a novice carpenter, so I did some trial and error in the process.
The first time I tried to shape it without a flat pattern (mistake).
I screwed two red oak trees together.
Saw them, so they would have the same shape as whey, but not far from a fair curve.
I tried to do a curve show on a sander, but it didn\'t work very well.
Later, the pieces came in handy and made a MacGyvered drilling and pressing fixture.
The first one did give me a good practice on how to not drill holes in the hardwood floor, I have torn
Everywhere.
Lesson learned: The last process to work for me, no tears
The following: better procedures may be provided by more experienced carpenters (
Please comment below)
But it works for me, I have no tearsout of blow-
On any of the 60 holes.
All the extra holes I drilled on my arm were originally just for beauty, but by adjusting them to the same size as the pulley mounting holes, I was free to reinstall
Put the pulley on the length of the arm if I need it.
The flat pattern is a 24 \"x 36\" PDF file that you should be able to take to your local copy store and have them print out for about $5, every penny is worth it.
I glued it to the wood with a light spray of 3 m Super 77.
Drill the hole with a 3/8 pin fixture.
You\'ll want to put a tape depth gauge on the 3/8 \"drill bit to make sure you don\'t accidentally drill to the last hole in your arm.
These bases are a breeze for fab, here is the procedure to connect the pulley holder to the base using a pin, but wood screws and glue can also work and may provide stronger
I was unable to fix the long pulley arm on the base, so I was unable to apply pressure during the bonding process, it still works fine, just causing the joints to weaken.
If I do this again, I will simply use wood screws and glue.
The finishing process here is very standard, just follow the instructions on the can.
The only special thing I need is to enter all the holes along the length of the long pulley arm with a small lint free wipes.
My pulley does not currently have any safety measures to prevent the wires from falling off, which will cause the lights to come crashing down on my desk and the bulbs to be broken.
I might end up adding one, but haven\'t found a way to look beautiful yet.
When installing dry wall anchors, make sure to drive them all the way.
Because the pulley base has two mounting holes in the same horizontal center
Lines, they swing up and down if the anchors stick out.
Even if I beat them all the way, I still used a stack of VHB tapes (
The outer film is still there and I don\'t want to stick it to the wall)
To eliminate any remaining up and down swings.
The electrical system consists of two separate systems: 120VAC 12 VDCUpdate: I have attached the electrical schematic for clarity.
I am very satisfied with the results of this building, I sat at my desk and finished this teaching under these new lights.
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