Modern Led Infinity Mirror Table Lamp
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In this instructable, I will describe how to make an infinite mirror of modern style, which works just as well as a desk lamp and looks great.
The unlimited mirror is powered by a low voltage DC power supply and features LED lights.
This Instructure is entered in the light race, so please vote if you like!
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Way mirror is a local mirror, which means it reflects some light and allows the rest to pass through.
The light bounces between mirrors, and the two-way mirror allows some light to pass through each time.
This creates a series of weakened reflections of strength, resulting in the illusion that the light disappears in the distance.
The base consists of wood of the same width as the mirror.
One end of the wood is square and there is a Mitto saw. Measure297mm (8” in the US).
Cut the wood into a certain length.
Route two slots on the top surface with 3mm or 1/8 straight router bits.
Polish the blocks to improve the finish.
In an infinite mirror, a rectangular aluminum frame supports the LED bar.
The corners of the frame are radians so that two led tapes can be applied more easily.
The Led belt can only be cut after every third led in the marking position, so it is important that the inner circumference of the frame matches the length of the led belt, otherwise, the led display will have gaps.
The frame is formed around a simple fixture.
This includes 4 discs cut off from the plastic kitchen chopping board and bolted onto a piece of wood.
Cut 4 discs with a 15mm-hole saw.
Drill 4 holes in a piece of wood with a rectangular pattern.
Nail four discs on the board.
Piece of wood, screw onto the piece of wood.
Punch or drill holes at the end of the aluminum belt.
Twist the aluminum strip onto the block.
Bend aluminum strips around each disc.
Cut off excess aluminum tape with metal scissors or hacksaw.
Check if the corner is square and the size of the corner is equal.
Check whether the led tape is properly installed inside the aluminum frame.
Punch or drill three additional mounting holes at the bottom of the frame.
Sink the hole down.
To hide the wires that power the LEDs, drill holes on the wood and cut a slot below.
Connect the aluminum frame to the base with wooden screws.
Cut a piece of led tape to fit the outside of the frame.
Please note that led tape can only be cut at the marked position.
Remove the backing from the led tape and apply it to the outside of the frame.
If the adhesive is a bit weak at any time then I have found cyano acrylic glue (superglue)works well.
I used this on the edge of the led tape to get extra strength.
Drill two holes through the center of the frame, the same width as the contact on the led light strip.
Mark the edges of the frame on the wood with a pencil.
Unscrew the frame from the wood.
Mark the width of the led tape contacts on the previously marked edge line and use it to determine the optimal position of the external led wire holes.
Drill two wire holes for the external led light strip.
Enlarge the two wire holes of the internal led light strip.
In order to make it easier for the wire to pass through, the hole counter is partially entered.
To keep the wiring between the internal and external LEDs hidden, route a slot at the bottom of the base.
Set the stop block on the router table.
Using the a6mmor 1/4 \"straight router bit, route a slot between two sets of holes along the bottom of the wooden base.
It is also optional to drill some larger gap holes at the end of the slot.
The power cable is fed back into the slot through the back of the wooden base.
The cable I used was a dual speaker wire.
Drill two holes from the back of the wooden base to the slot.
Form an oval hole with a drill bit.
Check if the power cable can pass through the elliptical hole.
All the work on the base is done now, so this is a great point to give it the last layer of sand, paint it, and let it dry.
Weld two lengths of enameled copper wire to the led light strip outside the frame.
Pass the wire through the external hole at the top of the wooden base.
Twist the frame back to the wood base to make sure the holes are aligned.
Cut the length of the power cable and pass through the oval hole at the back of the base.
Peel off the end of the power cable wires.
Peel enamel from enameled copper line.
Use a soldering iron to tin the stripped part of the enamelled copper wire.
Wrap the power cord around the tin-plated part of the enameled copper wire.
Make sure that it is done in such a way that the Heat Shrink tube can cover the joint through the free end of the wire.
Connect the negative side of the led light strip to the stripe side of the power cord.
Weld the wires together.
Push the Heat Shrink tube onto the enameled wire and cover the joint.
Heat the Shrink tube with a hot gun.
Pass the free end of the enameled copper wire through two holes in the center of the wooden base and the aluminum frame.
Cut the length of the led tape so that it fits inside the frame.
Find the contacts at the tape center and punch holes in the contacts using pins.
Use a knife and/or sandpaper to remove the enamel from the copper line until the wire leaves the top of the frame.
I also added some small pieces of heat shrinkage to the wires and holes, flush with the top of the frame.
Cut the adhesive backing off from the center of the led strip.
Place the led light strip on the wire to make sure the polarity is correct.
Remove some backing and apply the led light strip along the bottom of the frame.
Weld the wire to the led light strip and flush the wire.
Remove the rest of the backing from the led light strip and apply it inside the frame.
If everything is OK, the end of the led light strip should just meet and two small length wires can be welded between the contacts on both sides.
This helps to strengthen the strip mechanically and also helps to establish some electrical redundancy.
To power the LED light, a regulated power supply of 2 amps and 12 volts was used.
There are usually 2 of these. 1mm/5.
5mm connector, so connect it to the led cable using the dc socket of the Screw terminal adapter.
Peel off the power cable wires.
Insert the stripe line into the negative side of the connector and the normal line into the positive side of the connector.
Screw the connector terminals onto the wire.
To protect the surface, the felt is glued to the wood base.
I use the normal pva glue.
The regular mirror is installed in the rear slot of the base.
The mirror is equipped with a protective cover and it is removed in addition to the last Velcro \"/19mm in order to protect it when the mirror surface is placed into a slot.
It is easy to extract fingerprints with acrylic resin, so it is best to wear gloves.
The two-way mirror has two different sides, one acrylic side and one foil side.
If the supplier does not state which party it is, then you can easily pass by placing a flat card edge on each side of the mirror, see if there is a visible gap between the card and its reflection to judge.
If you can see a gap, it\'s acrylic.
If you can\'t see the agap then it\'s the foil side.
The two-way mirror is mounted in the slot at the front of the base and the acrylic side is facing forward.
Similarly, it is best to wear gloves during installation.
Acrylic is easy to scratch, the foil side of the two-way mirror is easy to damage, so it is important to pay attention to the supplier\'s advice when cleaning.
I found that the fine fiber cloth for glasses cleaning is the best choice for small marks.
I hope you like this note;
This is one of my favorite projects and the people who saw it for the first time have an amazing reaction.
This Instructure is entered in the light race, so please vote if you like!
You may also like some of the other projects I posted on instructures and YouTube.
Thank you for taking the time to read, Nigel.