Light Up Tardis Bedside Table With Built in Lamp
But look at my building and you might think I\'m a madman.
I just like to do something for my kids and you can guess which show is popular in the house. . . .
My daughter\'s bedroom wanted a new bedside table and I joked that it was supposed to be Tardis.
Needless to say, she did a good job in this and I am working on another project.
I designed the lighting so that the lights at the top and the lights inside can be turned on individually or together.
The front door opens and there is a shelf inside so she can fill it up (
For lack of better terms)crap.
It was so bad that there was no bigger inside because her room didn\'t look like a tornado hit it at that time. . . .
The main tool I use to do this is the table saw.
The three-month nail of what I grind, 2 feet is made of 4 feet pieces of 1/4 inch thick plywood and 24 × 30 inch pieces, prefabricated, and glued the wood together to make a piece of paper.
I bought the lamp parts in a lamp electricity store with shadows from Wal-MartMart (
I added ribbons in the shade).
Most of my sizes are in inches, but when I think about it, I sometimes write down centimeters too, so you might see both occasionally.
Especially when its size is weird.
If I sit down and do this project directly, it may take me a week or two. . . .
But life got in the way of me and it took me almost 8 months.
At least my daughter was happy with the end result and told me it was worth waiting.
She now likes to show off to her friends.
With a piece of prefabricated wood (picture 5)
I cut the bottom of the table.
Using a table saw, I will have the base 16 1/2 wide and 16 1/2 long. (Picture 1)
In order to create the bevel edge, I then measured a line outside, 1/4 from all the edges. (Picture2)
I also marked the line on the edge of the wood base.
Set your desktop saw blade to 45 degrees and move the fence back 1/4 plus the width of the saw blade.
Now, when you cut your base, your saw should be cut far enough so that when you look at the base, the line you mark on the board will disappear as soon as it is cut.
I will test this on a piece of scrap first to make sure your measurements are correct. (Picture 3)
Since the fence is only on the right on most tables, you have to turn the base over and pour it over.
Cut off your base from all sides(Picture 4)
Once you flip it back after cutting, you should have a sloping edge with only 1/4 at the top.
Let me start first and don\'t throw away anything cut off.
You will eventually use most of the deadlines at a later date.
Take two pieces 2x4 and cut into about 8 pieces 24 inch long.
Anyway, it doesn\'t matter if they leave half an inch.
You will trim them down to finish them later. (Picture 1)
2x4 per cut and tear (the short side)of the board.
2x4 is not square, you will turn it into a square by cutting one side of the board.
Only cut enough to remove the rounded corners.
It will eventually be around 1/1/8.
Almost equal to the thickness of the blade.
If you need more than you need, you end up having to buy more boards later because you don\'t have enough material. (Figure 2 and 3)
Set the fence to 2 3/16 \"cut.
Place the previously cut edge on the fence so that once your plate is cut, the larger part will be square on both sides.
The cutting distance is about 7/8 inch or slightly larger.
Now put aside the cut and you will come back to them. (Picture 4)
Take the big board you just cut (
The long side should be 2 3/16 \").
Open its side and tear the board apart so the short side is now just 1 inch.
Your intercept is about 1/3/8.
Leave this behind. (Picture 5)
I can\'t emphasize it.
The cuts you make will get smaller and smaller, please make sure to use the putter when cutting to keep your fingers away from the blade. (Picture 1)
Now you need to cut 45 degrees in your 2 3/16 \"1\" blocks. (Picture 2)
Make sure you don\'t cut into the long side (2 3/16\" ).
45 degree cutting needs to start from the corner directly below the surface of the long edge, so that once cut, the length of the long edge is still 2 3/16. (Picture 3)
Once you \'ve torn all 8 boards off, they should look like piles on the left side of Figure 3.
Then take two pieces and stick them together along the 45-degree cut.
Wood glue works best.
If you have never used wood glue before, the best way is to apply a thin layer of glue on the two surfaces you glue together to make it tacky for 30 seconds to 1 minute, then put the pieces together.
They stick together better when dry and dry. (
Pictures 4 and 5)
I stood up the long ends of the pieces so that even if they were glued together, one end was relative.
If they are not perfect at both ends, don\'t worry, because you will trim them later anyway.
You need to come up with a way to keep these pieces together while drying.
Just tape them and/or clip them.
I don\'t have a patient to do this, so I used a gas DingTalk with my finishing nails and nailed them together when they were dry.
If you use a DingTalk, do not pin within 2 inch of each end.
When I was drying, I found three nails sticking it together.
Once done, you should build 4 corner posts.
Put them aside and let them dry for 24 hours. (Picture 1)
You have to cut the corner post into size now.
It doesn\'t matter which end you start with, but I start with an almost uniform end.
Although it may even seem like it ended up causing the post to sit incorrectly.
So I cut the end with my chop saw to make sure the post is completely flat.
I cut it off with a saw blade (Figure 2 and 3)
As you can see in the photo, the other end is not even close at all.
Again, it doesn\'t matter because posts are made around 24 inch and you will now reduce their length to 22 1/4. (Figures 1 and 2)
One by one, put it in the corner and draw it in the corner of the base with a pencil. (Figures 3 and 4)
When you draw around a post in each corner, before moving to the next post, number the base corner and then the bottom of the post.
When you set up your post, you will find some minor flaws in the wound, base, etc.
Numbering them will ensure that the work you put in will not be reset to set each post to the exact location you wantdone.
Once you \'ve tagged the base for all four corners of the post, go back to the back and mark an \"x\" where you want to drill \".
When the glue dries, two screws are enough to hold things together. (Picture 5)
Now, pre-drill each mark you make from the top of the base to the bottom.
This will make sure there is no guess as to where to put the screws from the bottom. (Picture 6)
I flip the base over and use the counter
Sink bit again
Drill all the holes.
When you put the screws in, it just helps to keep the screws flush and helps to prevent the wood from cracking.
You can leave without doing so, but be very careful and walk slowly so that the wood does not crack. (Picture 7)
I used 2 8 screws 1/2.
Attach a post completely before proceeding with the next one.
If you don\'t do that, you\'ll have screws hanging out so it\'s hard to work with the base.
Place two screws from the bottom until the tip reaches out. (Picture 8)
Next, pick up the corner post corresponding to that position, gently put it back in the corner and align it with the mark you have already made.
Once you are satisfied with the placement, push the post down so that the screws that pass through leave a mark on the bottom of the post.
I circled the indents in the picture so you can see them better.
Next, drill and drill into the base using indentation as a guide.
I only drilled about an inch.
You don\'t need to drill into the entire length of the screw.
This is just to guide the screw into a straight line as it enters the post. (Picture 9)
Now apply glue to the bottom and bottom of the post.
You don\'t need allot.
I suggest you apply it with your fingers so that it covers all the surface areas that will stick together.
Wait about 30 seconds to make the glue tacky.
Then put the post back on the base and drive the screws from the bottom.
The screws will stay inside permanently, so make sure you\'re happy with where they are under the base.
Now go to the next article and repeat it. (Picture 10)
Once you have finished the four sides, your side table should be like this.
At this point, I let the glue dry for 24 hours so that the pillars don\'t move when I add walls.
I\'m not quite sure what this step is called, so it\'s a bit wordy at the end. (Picture 1)
When the glue dries overnight, the bottom begins to curl.
It\'s just Spruce, so it\'s actually predictable.
If you have one, putting the wall in will solve the problem.
But you need to do some measurements before you do that.
To fix this I decided to cut some parts and now I will use it in future steps. (Picture 2)
You need to cut into your third 2x4 now.
Cut 15 \"from the end of the plate \".
You ground the piece you just cut.
You need to make four pieces of stuff that is 1/2 \"x1\" long.
The reason I originally suggested 15 inch long is that it is easier to refine and cut perfectly with smaller parts.
As you can see in the photo, I gradually cut the pieces down to make sure the cut is perfect.
Cut the 45 degree angle until later.
Now you only want the one 14 inch long. (Picture 3)
Now you can straighten the table with these 14 inch pieces.
I put it between the pillars in the top corner and separate them.
I then measured the openings between the columns at the bottom of all four sides to confirm that they are all the same size.
They all came to the implementation of 3/4 \"a flat hand 1/16 inch. . . . Close enough.
I also measured the columns from the inner corner to the inner corner, they are all 14 inch.
Remove the gasket you put on the top, separate the pillars and put them on hold for the time being. (Picture 1)
I bought two small 1/4 thick plywood (
Size is 24 \"x 48\".
Similarly, it is easier to make precise cuts on 4x8 sheets with smaller paper.
Now is the time to decide the position in front of the side table.
I chose the imperfect side of the foundation and pillars. (Picture 2)
I got three panels from the first sheet.
But I cut only two panels at first.
Cut the first two to 14 inch wide, longer than you need now (
Mine is 24 inch long).
Leave the two panels you just cut on the table to dry to make sure they fit.
I put two 14-width panels in.
Between the pillars that tilt each other to straighten out the base. (Picture 3)
The width of the panel after measurement, the width should be 13 1/2, and the third panel is cut into that width.
Rear panel needs to be installed-
As shown in the figure, between the left and right panels. (Picture 4)
Your side table should be like this when everything is dry.
We will come back to the front door later.
Take out the panels and now cut them all to 20 1/2 long.
Re-install after drying to make sure they are all as high now. (Picture 1)
Before removing the panel, take a pencil and draw a line on the outside of each panel where it touches a corner post (
The lines in the graph are blurry).
There is a go on the inside of each panel mark (
Left, right, back and which direction).
Remove all panels now.
The panel will be glued and screwed in place to ensure that the unit is firm after completion.
Between 1/1/2 and 2 inch from the top and bottom, pre-
Drill four holes on each panel outside the line you draw, so that the screws will enter the post after installation.
Because this is the thin wood you need to prepare in advance.
Drill to prevent wood from cracking.
I flip the panel again and sink the hole back so my screws are flush.
Apply glue on the panel outside the line you draw, the panel will touch the area of the post and will also cover the inside of the post (
Figure 5 is this. .
Place the panel in the correct position on the side table and screw the panel in.
Make sure your screws are not long enough to go through the pillars all the time.
I used screw 8 3/4.
I installed the left and right panels first.
For me, this is two sides of the base curved.
Installing them first corrects the curve of the base. (Picture 3)
I noticed that they are not straight when I draw lines on the back board.
This is another reason to draw these lines, and it can help you figure out if everything is square or not while it can still be corrected. (Picture 4)
I dry the panel and put it back on the table, pull the two halves tightly together with a large clip and redraw the line.
You can see the revised lines in figure 3. (Picture 5)
Prepare the post with glue. (Picture 6)
The rear panel is placed.
It\'s not screwed yet because there\'s still a gap on the left (Picture 7)
I even noticed a small gap on the right (Picture 8). (Picture 9)
I put the clips on the post at the back, squeezed everything together again, and screwed them down.
Hopefully you will be luckier than me and everything goes well and you can skip the few steps here. (Picture 1)
Now, you will go back to the top of the 1 \"x 1/2\" You cut before.
Before you do a 45 degree cut, I would recommend drying them all for installation.
Place them one at a time (Picture 2)
Around the top to make sure they fit closely.
Maybe I should say it fits perfectly.
Then mark where they came from before pulling them out (
You can see that I marked mine in figure 4. .
You may find that your size is a bit large and you may have to try the top part in a few places to see where it fits best. (Picture 3)
Now you can cut 45 degrees on each top.
Note: Just like when you cut the corner column, do not cut to the edge of 14 degrees when doing 45 degrees cutting.
Start cutting on the short 1 \"face so that after the cut is done, the long edge is still 14 \".
Now put all four top sections back on the side table.
They will be flush with the top of the corner post (
As shown in Figure 6).
You may have to put the two tops together (
Front and left for example)
To keep them rubbing.
You may then find that before putting the two parts back in the corner of the post, you have to partially lift a corner and have them sit together. (Picture 4)
Before removing all the parts you just put in, mark the wood where it meets the post, and do so on both sides of each part. (Picture 5)
Also mark under each piece in the corner post.
I removed the Shard from this photo so you can see where I marked it on the inside of the post.
The reason you should mark everything is to let you know where the glue is.
If you apply too much, this will prevent you from cleaning up excess glue later.
Remember, when gluing, apply a little glue on each top and inside of the corner post, and then rub it with your fingers first.
You don\'t want a bunch of glue in one place, but a film in the whole area.
Let the glue stay for 30 seconds to a minute before starting to place the top.
By doing so, you will get a better grasp once set up. (Picture 6)
Once all your tops are glued to your stand, it should look like this.
The top part should be flush with the top of the corner post.
Ideally, for the \"police box\" logo of white plexiglass or Lexan that you want to be opaque.
All you want is 1/8 thick.
It\'s really hard to find.
The only place I can find will only be sold to me on 4\'x8\' sheets of paper.
Much more than I need.
So I keep hunting around.
I finally found a small piece of 1/8 thick organic glass in Home Depot.
Obviously, but there is a white plastic film on both sides of it to protect it from damage.
I tested it and the light shone perfectly on it.
I took this plastic but I did not remove the white protective film at any time.
Later, when I got the logo red, I had to make sure to leave a specific note not to remove the lid.
You will need to choose the plexiglass or Lexan for the next step.
You need to start now with the box where the \"police box\" logo is located. (Picture 1)
From your previous cut, you should have parts 2 inch wide and 1/4 thick.
You need to tear these pieces off so they are 1 inch and a half wide now, but still 1/4 thick.
Cut aside, because you will use these later. (Picture 2)
If your table saw has safety fences on it, you need to remove them immediately in the next step. (Picture 3)
Lower the blade to the table so that there are only 1/1/8 blades above the table.
This is where you need the organic glass (or Lexan). (Picture 4)
Leave the fence 1/4 from the blade.
You will then pass 1/2 by 1/4 of the wood through the blade so you can see the effect in this photo.
Cut all your parts first before proceeding to the next step.
I make sure to cut at least eight boards and you may want to cut a few more for safety.
Now measure the thickness of your plexiglass, or try to install it in the groove of the wood you just cut.
In my case, my plexiglass is only over 1/8 inches thick.
This made the blade of my saw a little thicker.
If you have the same problem, you need to move your saw fence over (
Away from the blade)
It\'s really a hair.
Now, pass a piece of wood through the saw again, and then test if the plexiglass is suitable for the groove.
If not, remove the fence again and cut it again.
You want the plexiglass to slide into the woods.
You don\'t want it to move around.
Once the fence is moved to the right distance, cut all the remaining boards to match.
Again, when you\'re done, they should all look like the plates in figure 4.
To find out why you need plexiglass to fit into the woods, skip to step 21: make the \"police car\" logo. (Picture 5)
Measure the width of the bedside table from a place horizontal with the top of the wall.
It should be 16 inch wide.
Make an inch and a half mark from each side.
The distance between them should be 13 inch. (Picture 6)
Take a plate you just made and cut it to 13 inch long with a 45 degree angle.
Remember again, make sure the long end outside is actually 13 inch. (Picture 7)
Now take the new cut to the bedside table.
You should just match with the mark you make on the stand.
In this photo, you can see that I made two marks on the wood.
A marker in figure 8 has a close-up shot. (Picture 9)
Now, as you can see in this photo, fix the board against the wall on the pillar in the corner and mark the wood again.
Do this at both ends of the wood.
Once done, there should be four marks on your wood. (Picture 1)
Now connect all the marks on the wood, as shown in the figure. (Picture 2)
For this step you need to do some fine cutting.
You can use the puzzle, but you need to be very stable with the cut.
If you don\'t have a band saw, you can also use a thin-tooth hand saw so you can cut it slowly. (Picture 3)
Now put the piece you just cut on the bedside table and make sure your 45 degree cut face is up.
As shown in this photo, the painting should be flush with the top of the wall.
There should be no gap between the cutting piece and the wall and the corner column (Picture 4). (Picture 5)
Before you mark the bedside table, make sure that the piece that you want to stick to is exactly 90 degrees on the wall. (Picture 6 & 7)
As with previous bonding, apply the glue to the two pieces to be glued, wait 30 seconds to a minute, and press them together.
When everything dries, fix them together using clips.
Now, for the other side of the bedside table, perform this step again.
Leave the front to the end(Picture 1)
To put the bottom of the logo box in front, you need to do the other three sides first.
Once they stick to the appropriate position, draw a line from the bottom of the debris on the side (
The arrow indicates what I\'m talking about)
In front of the bedside table.
Both sides do so. (Picture 2 & 3)
Measure an inch and a half from the pillars in each corner and make a mark on the other three sides as before.
Now Mark and cut the signature box as before and cut it out. (Picture 4 & 5)
Because you don\'t have a wall to clip this time to make sure the board doesn\'t bend, use a piece of waste wood, clip it to the bottom of the board and keep it straight, then clip everything on the side table as it dries.
It is very important that the dress does not bend like when it is dry, it is difficult to open and close the front door while it emits light from the inside.
I should have mentioned it before, but you don\'t want any logo box plates to be bent as this will make it difficult for the logo to be placed later.
You will now find a pile of debris that should be 3/8 thick and 1 inch wide.
You need to cut the 15 degree angle on these parts.
You need their help.
You may even need to grind more wood to get enough wood in order to complete the project. (Picture 1 & 2)
There are two ways you can do this.
If you have a router, you can trim all the parts using a 15 degree cone bit. (Picture 3)
Alternatively, you can set the blade to 15 degrees with your desktop saw.
Make sure that when you cut the wide edge of each piece of travel is still around the 1 inch mark. (Picture 4)
You need a lot of these decorations to continue. (Picture 1 & 2)
First measure the distance between the top and bottom corner columns.
The reason for this is not that every cut you make is perfect.
If you\'re a bit off from top to bottom, it\'s no big deal, and you can correct that as long as you know. (Picture 3)
Once you know the distance between the midpoint of the mark, either at the top or at the bottom, draw a line that connects them.
Once it is done, this line should go along the center all the time. (Picture 4)
Now you can make measurements from the top of the bottom to the bottom of the signature box. . .
Or you can cheat like me, put a piece of decoration in place and mark the place to be cut.
Laziness is sometimes rewarding. . .
Make sure to keep the base of the trim away from the side wall at the bottom so that when you go to mark it for cutting, the trim is relatively parallel to the wall.
If you do not, you will find that your trim pieces are always too long when cutting. (Picture 5)
How do I mark the close-up of the trim. (Picture 6)
Once you have cut two decorative pieces, please dry them to make sure everything looks good and draw a line (Picture 7)
So you know where to apply glue.
Make sure you don\'t confuse which trim went to which place because the sides can be slightly different.
As usual, apply glue on two pieces, stick together, let them sit together, and press together.
Make sure to add glue to the wide edge of the wall, the narrow edge of the corner pillar, and each end.
This will help strengthen the side table once it dries. (Picture 8)
When it dries, clip everything down. (Picture 1)
You will now add the center trim.
We use the 1 inch trim of the 15 degree corner again.
Cut off your decor to fit the length of the panel. (Picture 2)
Place your decoration on both sides of the center line.
Measures to ensure the same distance on both sides (
Figure 5, equal to A and B).
In my case, both are 3 and 3/4 wide. (Picture 3)
Mark the position where the decorations will be placed, then remove the decorations to apply the glue. (Picture 4).
Fix the clip in place when the glue dries.
If there is a small gap between decorative pieces, don\'t worry, this will be covered later. (Picture 1)
Next is to add trim at the top and bottom of the panel. (Picture 2)
Take a piece of trim and tear it off so that the bottom edge is only 3/4 inch wide. (Figures 3 and 4)
I use a cutting saw to cut the end into the desired 15 degree angle in order to trim between the already installed trim (Picture 5).
Glue and clamp these pieces before proceeding. (Picture 1)
Back to Step 14, you trim with a 15 degree angle on one side.
Now you need to run the trim via a router or a desktop saw to cut another 15 degrees on the other side.
Once completed, the bottom of the trim will be slightly lower than 1 inch due to the cutting process. (Picture 2)
Cut the decorative pieces into decorative pieces suitable for previous installation.
Don\'t run in front and cut off everything you need right away.
I guarantee each one is slightly different so measure each one individually.
From the top to the bottom, your size may deviate slightly, and even the size of the wood may be different. (Picture 3)
Measure 4 inch up from the bottom and 4 inch down from the top (picture 4). (Picture 5)
Install all these trim pieces dry before you determine the exact location.
Place two decorations on the lines drawn in figure 4.
The arrow in Figure 5 shows the position of the line relative to the trim.
If all goes well, the center piece should be 4 inch each with the other decorative pieces already placed.
If your dimension is closed, it\'s not the end of the world.
If this happens, locate the center of the panel from top to bottom and mark the center point.
Decorate the center.
Then measure the midpoint from the middle trim to the top/bottom trim and mark the center point.
Then put your next trim.
The point is that you want all the decorations to have the same size boxes between them.
The picture is a bit out of order, but in Picture 7 you can see what I\'m trying to explain. (
Figure 6, 7, 8)
Once you put your decor where you want it, take a pencil and draw a line on both sides of each dress so that once it is glued, it is easier to put them down. (Picture 9)
As you work around the table, I\'ll step back before sticking the pieces down and see how they align with what I \'ve installed.
Now go back and repeat steps 14 to 18 on all three sides of the side table.
Now is the best time to install rack pin holes.
Use a piece of waste wood about 1/2 thick, 1/4 wide and about 14 inch long, place it on the inside of the door frame and draw a line with the pieces inside.
The pin will only enter the left and right sides of the inner panel.
Put the scrap aside and you will need it soon. (Picture 1 & 2)
Measure the interior of the side table from the bottom of the panel to the top.
Mark the midpoint. (Picture 3)
Put the scrap back in the side table and mark the center point on the scrap.
I put the scrap on top of the side table because I felt the roof was more flat than the base.
I found my base a bit twisted and I didn\'t want to pass it to the shelf. (Picture 4)
I measured 1/4 from the edge of the fragment and drew a line parallel to the edge.
Then I marked 1 inch lines from the original center line I made.
I did two under the center line and four above.
I think it\'s enough to have seven lions on the shelf inside. (Picture 5)
Make sure you have a shelf pin at hand before drilling.
You want your hole to be the same size as your shelf pin (picture 7). (Picture 6)
Drill through scrap all the way in the position of each mark.
Keep the holes straight as much as possible. (Picture 7)
All you need to do is drill the depth of the shelf pin into the side table.
Measure the thickness of the waste wood and the depth of the pin, and mark it on the drill with tape. (Picture 8 & 9)
Put your scrap back on his side table, something a little thicker towards the front door of the side table.
Drill each hole only to the depth of the tape on the drill bit.
When you make the back of the side table, flip the scrap over so that the thick part is headed towards the back wall.
Once it\'s done, you want all your holes to be 1 inch off the corner.
I have tested a pin in figure 8.
The next step is easier to do than I explain. (Picture 1)
The best way to add the top of the \"police box\" logo is to make the fixture.
In this case, this is a simple piece of wood that you will put on the top of the existing \"police box\" signs you have installed in steps 11, 12 and 13.
You want this piece of wood to barely pass under the roof above.
It should be very tight but still fit.
Now, make the top of the logo the way you make the bottom.
Make sure there is a 45 degree cut on both ends.
Before you apply glue, please make sure the top and bottom sides of the sign up are aligned.
Otherwise, you won\'t have the perfect rectangle once it\'s assembled.
I also drew in figure 1 where the top of the logo fits so you can see that it\'s under the roof, not flat with it. (Picture 2)
Clip and glue the top of the \"police box\" logo.
The use of wooden fixtures will help to keep the sign straight and twist like a fine block of wood. (Picture 2A)
After I finished typing this section, I found that more photos I took might help.
In this photo, you can see that the board may be twisted on you. (Picture 2B)
I used an angle finder to make sure my marks are arranged from the logo board at the bottom and at the top.
The pencil scale on the side panel is where I cut into the plate around the corner pillar. (Picture 2C)
Before gluing and clamping, check carefully if the plate is square. (Picture 3)
In step 11, you should make additional planks to make your \"police box\" logo.
Cut a 45 degree angle on the groove side of the plate.
See the picture for better details.
Instead of trying to measure the exact size, instead lean the plate back on the sign at the top and bottom.
Mark where you need to cut. (Picture 4)
Test it once you cut the side block to make sure it fits tightly.
If you need to cut off the excess, keep the groove closest to the side table, Mark. (Picture 5)
Now connect the two markers and create a line on the artifact.
It may not be straight as the size of your top and bottom logo plates may be slightly different. (Picture 6)
When you go dry to install the Side block, you have to flip it so that the groove is aligned with the plate at the top and bottom.
The glue and clips are in place once everything looks good.
You will only do it on one side of each \"police box\" sign.
You must keep the other side open for the logo to be inserted later.
Let the other side right away, but be sure to label them as belonging to them, as each one will be slightly different.
This is done in all four areas. (Picture 1)
It\'s time to start making the \"police box\" logo.
As shown in the figure, measure the opening on the sign box.
Cut your sheet into hair that is narrower than you measured, so that when you slide the sheet in, it will be tight, but not tight, so you have to push hard.
Cut the paper into longer than you need. (Picture 2)
Mark the end of the groove on the top and bottom sign plates.
The arrow in the picture points to where I said it.
Slide the board into and mark your sign.
Draw a line that connects two marks. (Picture 3)
Yes, no picture 3.
I messed up their numbers. . . . (Picture 4)
Once cut and put back on the board, it should be a little more prominent.
In this way, it can be installed in the end piece groove to be fixed later. (Picture 5)
I dried the end to make sure it sat tight there.
Don\'t stick it on this.
Take it down and take the board out.
We will contact them later.
I sent my board to a vinyl logo company to do it.
I may print out the sticker and put it on myself, but I have no patience.
I have added the logo here for you to download. (Picture 6)
Finally, I made a second side table for the charity silent auction.
However, the point of the photo is that the wording should be consistent with you.
\"P\" is aligned with the left window, and \"x\" is aligned with the right bus window. (Picture 1)
As shown in the figure, draw a line through the center of the wooden box.
Once installed, this will be the edge of the roof. (Picture 2)
Use the same board you used to make the side table floor, cut the top.
In my case it was about 13 inch by 13 inch.
Also cut at least 1/2 long 4 13 inch strips from the same piece of paper. (Picture 3)
Tilt the edge of the strip you cut to 45 degrees so you can make a box profile. (Picture 4)
The outline of the box you just made should fit under the desktop you have already cut.
The purpose of this is to give the table a little more height. (Picture 5)
Stick the table to the rest of the side table.
Once set up, draw a line from each corner and create an \"x\" at the top \".
This will mark the center of the table so you can drill holes later. (Picture 6)
Next you need a normal paint mixer stick.
Cut 8 per inch. (Picture 7)
Sand 1 edge to 45 degrees.
You want to polish the side of the stick, you don\'t have the cut part, and Figure 8 shows the relationship between the cut part and the original stick. (Picture 9)
Glue the detail parts of each corner with clips and glue.
I forgot to take the photo of the first step, but it is easy to do without the photo.
Use the plywood you use for the other three walls and cut a board that fits perfectly with the front opening.
Once you get the board, cut it down from the middle. (Picture 1)
The thickness of the saw blade will give you the required clearance so that the door can be opened.
Once you have two panels, just like the other three walls, build the door with trim.
The difference is that you don\'t have to measure for the center point.
Just extend the two long decorative pieces along the side of the panel (Picture 2).
When your two doors are finished, select your left door and measure the size of the panel shown in picture 2 with a star on it.
The reason I said to choose the door on your left is that I have an oopsy for the decoration in the panel and then I chose that one because it will be covered and hidden. . . . (Picture 3)
You need to cut a piece of wood of panel size, 1/4 thick.
Also cut yourself a bunch of 1/4 pieces, 1/4 longer than the panel you measured.
You fine tune the length when you go to install them. (Picture 4)
Stick the panel in place.
After drying, you can use the other 1/4 pieces of cutting to form a border around the panel (Picture 5).
If you were a nit-
Selector like me, you would want the two side bars to be longer than the two horizontal bars because they are on the actual props.
Let\'s put the door aside now. let\'s find them again.
Go through all your cuts because you may already have these pieces.
In my case, what they left from the previous wounds.
If not, you need to grind four pieces of wood 5/8 \"wide\", 1/4 \"thick, and the length needs to be the same or larger as the height of the door.
I say greater than, because it is easier to trim the length according to your needs. (Picture 1)
The finish will cover the gap in the center of each panel and cover the opening in the door. (Picture 2)
Trim a piece from the bottom to fit the bottom of the \"warning box\" logo.
Mark the center of the trim at the top and bottom, then draw a line from The Gap of the wood at the bottom, which will cover.
At the other end, also do so under the \"police box\" sign.
Trim the glue and clip in place. (Picture 3)
Do this on all three sides of the side table. (Picture 4)
You will put a decoration on one of the doors, except that you will only stick half of the decoration on one door (Picture 5).
In the program, they usually use the door on the right and it opens inward.
Because of this, I put the decoration on the door on the left (
Even if these open outward)
Match the TV props.
Unfortunately, I couldn\'t find a picture of the window frame building I took.
Despite the lack of some parts, I found the rest of my original frame.
I have done my best to re-
Create it for you here.
I only know that it will show up after I release this version. . . . .
To build a window frame you need cutting a of 1/4 \"1/4\" long at least 4 inch of wood.
In total to build a window frame you need: 2 pieces 3 3/4 \"long4 pieces 3 3/8\" long3 pieces 7/8 \"long.
However, before you go ahead and cut all these pieces, measure where fame will sit to make sure my size matches the size you built.
You may need to fine-tune your window frame size to fit in. (Picture 1)
In this picture I draw blue lines that are connected together.
As you can see, some parts are missing, but you can get a general idea of how it all fits together.
The blue point represents the missing part.
Actually, it took me nearly two weeks to make the frame as perfect as I wanted it to be.
This is my second attempt.
The first time I tried it, I found that the two external lengths were not parallel.
I also kept coming back to Polish and paint a few times until I was happy with it.
Since it took a long time to make one, I decided to make a model and cast all the eight window frames I needed.
So they will be exactly the same.
Don\'t panic, don\'t think you will take so long, I am doing it and doing some routine things like life, work, etc. . .
I also pay a bit too much attention to detail sometimes.
In any case, to make the mold, you need to make sure that there is no crack in the part to be formed, because the molding material will penetrate into the smallest hole.
Another reason why I filled in so many sand.
I won\'t discuss how to make a mold or casting, as there are a lot of resources and instructions on the Internet to get into it better than I did.
Be sure to prepare your frame and read and follow all the instructions on the box. I used Smooth-
Slowly cast and smooth on Die star 15
Cast on smooth casting 300.
I highly recommend that you spend extra money and also spray with a mold release agent.
With it, the casting pops up from the mold almost effortlessly. (Picture 2)
Once you \'ve cast all the window frames, make sure you brush them up and color them.
If you\'re not a smooth manufacturer
On said On their packaging that their products will turn yellow over time without being painted. (Picture 1)
You have to cut the opening of the window now.
Take a window frame you built and put it on the side table.
Trace the interior of the window frame to the panel where it is located.
I highlighted in red in the photo where I was going to track. (Picture 2 & 3 )
Once you have the window tracked, go back to it and draw a line outside the original trace.
You do not want to see wood paneling through the window when cutting, but you will not be able to install the window if it is cut too far.
You will cut the window with a jigsaw puzzle. (Picture 4)
Drill out four corners.
You need to use a drill bit to cut holes that the jigsaw blade can insert. (Picture 5)
I recommend using a metal cutting jigsaw blade when cutting windows as you will get a cleaner cut.
Note: for this building, I only cut left, right and doors and windows from the side table.
I didn\'t cut the back because it would lean against the wall so there was no need to get the light out of the back.
Also, when you fill a side table full of garbage, you don\'t have to worry about popping up from the back window at any time.
Before painting, you need to drill holes for your fixture hardware at the top of the side table.
If you haven\'t bought the fixture hardware, drill a 1/4 hole right now.
It acts as your pilot hole when making the hole bigger.
It\'s time to put the first layer of paint on the side table.
Before you stick the door, it\'s easier to make the first coat on the door.
I use the \"rich navy\" as my color.
I found it to be the closest match under different lighting conditions.
Only one coat is applied at this time. (Picture 1)
Installed in the door, I bought 1/16 inch 24 inch/piano hinge for a month.
This is the smallest I can find.
The hinge is too long, so you have to cut it down with a hacksaw.
Cut it off so it fits perfectly with the door frame (Picture 8).
When you cut the hinge, keep it closed and cut down to the bracket through the hinge (Picture 2).
If you try to go through the bracket first, you will break the hinge.
Next, open the hinge ,(Picture 3)
Painted with black primer (Picture 4).
You can use it if you can find a deep blue primer, but you want a primer that is as dark or darker as a blue paint.
The reason is that some paint on the hinge will fall off after a while, and you won\'t notice the difference if the primer is dark.
If you use a white primer, it will stand out like a thumb pain. (Picture 5)
I used the 8-head taper screw of 3/4 to connect the door.
If you walk longer than this, they will go through the door all the time. (Picture 6)
Attach the hinge to the frame first.
Keep the hinge flush with the front of the door frame.
Only one screw per second. (Picture 7)
Now fix the door and screw the hinge to the door.
Make sure you have some very thin stuff down the door, like a few toothpicks, so that it will open freely once connected.
When you get the hinge screwed, use the hole offset from the hole on the door frame.
See the picture for details.
The reason you need to do this is that if you put a screw in each hole, the screw head gets hit when you try to open the door and you won\'t be able to open the door properly.
Once the door is connected, do the second paint on the side table.
Paint the hinge with a second coating.
Earlier, I said don\'t cut off the back window.
We will now deal with them in this step. (Picture 1)
Place the window frame in the window position you want and trace the inside of the frame again (Picture 2). (Picture 3)
Just outside your tracking line tape up your side table so there won\'t be excessivespray (Picture 4). (Picture 5)
Paint the window black.
Although it is shiny in the picture I use matte black. Do two coats. (Picture 6)
After drying, put the window frame back on the side table and pull out the lower left and lower right pane (Picture 7).
Do so for both sides. (Picture 8)
Remove the tape from the window without removing the previous mask, so that now only two panes are displayed. (Picture 9)
Spray two layers with light gray paint. (Picture 10)
After the paint is dry, remove all the masks. (Picture 11)
Upon completion, there will be a mock window behind your side table.
Don\'t stick the frame to it, this will be in the next steps. (Picture 1)
Back in step 23, you make a box on a panel and the phone will be placed on a real police box in full size.
On the panel with 1 in Picture 1, you need to place the \"free use public\" logo. (
Figures 2, 3 and 5)
Print out the sign so that the four black spots will appear in the corner.
When you stick it in place, you may have to come back often to check that the glue is not rolled up. (
Figures 3, 4 and 5)
Print out St.
The ambulance John signed and stuck to it.
One trick to make your life easier is that if you have a Xyron sticker maker, the logo is small enough to make it a sticker.
Once both signs are glued and dry, you will want to lay a few layers of models on them to seal them.
Later you will spray varnish on the side table and they will turn yellow if you do not seal the logo. (Picture 7)
Now find your favorite drawer handles from your local hardware store and stick them on the door.
I use brushed nickel handles because I like the look of them best.
Although the screws are too long, I do have to cut them down. (Picture 8)
Place the handle about 1/2 from the edge of the door and place the handle on the outside decoration.
Remember the end cap of the \"police box\" logo you made in step 21?
Now is a good time to make sure they are painted and ready for later.
In Figure 1, I stuck them on a piece of cardboard (Picture 2 & 3)
And write on the table next to which one belongs.
Each of mine is slightly different, so I have to keep track of where I built them. (Picture 4)
One of the benefits of nailing them to cardboard is that I don\'t paint my fingers and I can rotate them instead of turning the whole piece of cardboard. . . .
So there\'s no paint on my finger. . .
Apply two paints to the end cap.
Now, take the door handle away and put it aside and you don\'t want to put varnish on it. (Picture 5)
I used paint varnish on the table next to me.
The 10 to 15 coats I applied for cost two or three cans.
I have to admit I lost after 10. . . .
If you want your side table to look as thick and smooth as professional furniture, you need to wear at least that many coats on the entire side table.
Every time you make a coat on the side table, don\'t forget to make a coat on the end cap.
You don\'t want them to look less smooth than the rest of the table that is attached.
You actually need an electrical part for the next step, but in order to clean up this step I move the drill forward to this step.
You need to drill a hole the same size as the wire in a rear corner.
I choose mine based on where I know the plug on the wall will be.
I drilled this hole from the thin part of the back panel because cleaning it would reduce the workload and it would hide better from the outside. (Picture 1)
I am not good at describing these components, but I will do my best.
It may be helpful to print this photo and bring it to the lighting electrical company.
Some things may not be found in the ordinary grocery store. A)
Power cord 8 feet (
I wouldn\'t be shorter than 8 feet, 10 feet would be better)B)
13 inch chrome tube, threaded at both ends. C)2 washersD)Washer coverE)
2 Light outlets of 1/4)
2 25 W frosted bulbsG)3-
Way of Light)One marette. (
I know I showed two, but I only needed one in the end. I)
4 compression accessories (
Sorry I don\'t know their real name)J)
3 feet of Electrical cordK)
Threaded connectors. (
Thread fit 13 inch tube)L)
Rebar 2 inch. (
Thread connecting the connector)M)
A nut is mounted on the 2 inch threaded pipe track. (Picture 2)
The lamp pieces that start assembling from left to right at the top of the table are 13 inch tubes, threaded connectors, 2 inch threaded tubes, gasket covers, and washing machines.
You may find that you need to cut the 13 inch threaded pipe slightly.
I want to have the same number of threads on both sides of the connector, so I have to cut some threads off the 13 \"pipe.
To cut off some threads, place the nut on the 13 \"tube first.
Then cut off that part of the thread you don\'t need.
Then, when you screw the nut down, it will straighten out any threads that are damaged when cutting.
If you haven\'t already, drill holes at the top of the side table to install a 2 inch threaded pipe.
Now put the piece you assembled on it in the hole. (Picture 3)
On the lower side of the table, place another washer and tighten the nut.
Everything on the table should look like Figure 4.
I can only get 3 wires to install the 13 \"pipe though I may try.
So I had to modify what I found online about how to connect 3-Light socket.
Note: Before starting wiring, make sure the power cord goes through the holes at the bottom of the side table.
Otherwise you will have to undo everything and pull the cable out as a plug
In will be on the inside of the side table.
This may involve a lot of cursing!
I put my interior lights on a line parallel to the front door.
In this way, get the best light on the front.
I have the original wiring plan I used because its description is much better than mine and the version I modified here is for you to use.
Instead of me trying to describe how to connect this (
Confuse you with a terrible description)
, You just follow the plan shown.
Once I have finished wiring, I run the wire down the corner closest to the bottom hole and pin it in place. (Picture 1)
I found glare free plasma at Home Depot for around $7.
I chose this because it is thin and easy to cut, and if you keep it away from the object, it will blur the meaning behind it (Picture 5).
When I look at the picture of it, the actual Tardis props seem to have done the same thing. (Picture 2)
I found that using a strong glue did work, but it ended up disappearing, so I ended up turning to the Gorilla two-part epoxy.
Mix only a little bit into the paper cup at a time, and then use the Popsicle to apply it to the window frame before connecting the plasma satellite.
This kind of thing is put quickly, so it will be wasted if you do too much.
Also, making this stick requires only a few dabs around the frame and a couple in the middle.
You don\'t need to paint the frame with epoxy.
Too much, it will squeeze out when it dries, it looks bad. (Picture 3 & 4)
There is a movie on both sides of the plasma satellite.
Not on the other side.
I stuck it on the window frame and didn\'t take off any of the movies.
I found that the side without writing made the plastic look more frosted.
Once stuck on it, I took the movie with the text on it.
When I work with it, it helps to protect the plasma satellite from damage. (Picture 6)
To connect the finished window to the side table, I used the same two-part epoxy.
Use the popsicle again, and before placing it on the side table, just tap outside the window.
You may need to weigh it when it is dry.
A bit of a long walk again.
Don\'t forget that no plastic is needed for the two rear windows, just stick them in place.
After you have painted and painted on the side table, you will want to prepare to stick the end cap to the area above.
Scrape off the paint from the area pointed by the arrow in Picture 1.
In this way, the glue has better adhesion than the smooth surface. (Picture 2)
Insert the \"warning box\" logo you have completed, then apply glue and clip the tail cap.
Do this on all sides of the side table. (Picture 1)
Go out and find a lampshade you like.
It should be remembered that the more cones in the lampshade, the harder it is to add ribbons.
Ideally, you should look for a barrel shade.
The picture here is the picture when I made the second lampshade.
In Figure 2, you can see the difference between the two lampshades.
I also picked the lampshade that didn\'t need extra accessories like a harp.
These have a ring under the bulb, Figure 1A. (Picture 3)
I went to a fabric store and found a 1 inch ribbon with almost exactly the color. (Picture 4)
Use Modge Podge again and apply ribbons on the top and bottom of the lampshade.
Because this shade has more tapering than the bucket shadow, the ribbon needs to be stretched to make it work.
After fighting it, I finally had to cut the ribbon and do it in several stages.
Measure the internal dimensions of your side table.
Cut off your shelf from the same piece of paper you cut off the base and desktop.
When you go to cut the rack, remove 1/8 from the dimensions on both sides and both ends of what you measure.
Your shelf pin takes up a bit of space on the wall, which should cover.
Also, in the corner where the wires run out, you need to cut the 45 degree wire to hold the wires.
The cut of 1/2 should be enough.
Once cut, there are two layers of paint on your shelf.
I only used about 4 to 5 coats to paint the top of my shelf.
You have it.
When you\'re done, I promise you\'ll have friends trying to convince you to make one of them. . . .
I would love to see your finished product if there is anyone in the Instructables land to continue production!