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Tables or floor lamps that don\'t work are both dangerous and annoying.
If a lamp flashes and does not shine, precise positioning is required during operation, wire wear or bulb burn often, should be repaired immediately or not used.
Most lamps are easy to repair.
The tools and replacement parts in the hardware store are cheap.
However, if it is necessary to remove a valuable lamp, or if the components of the lamp are not as described here, consider a professional repair of the lamp.
If a lamp is not on, even after replacing the bulb with a bulb that works in another lamp, you can check the socket on the wall by inserting an appliance that you know works.
If not, the fault is on the power outlet or circuit.
Call the certified electrician unless you know how to repair the home wire and the local building code allows you to do so.
If both the bulb and the socket work, the trouble is on the lamp.
Unplug and remove the bulb, lampshade and harp (
Wire framework supporting shade).
Use the tip of a screwdriver or nail clippers, or a thin piece-
Coarse sand sandpaper, by scraping the metal strip at the bottom of the socket until it glows.
Blow out the dust, pry the bar up a little and try to operate the light again.
Please check the plug and wire if still not on.
Plugs that are not properly handled or damaged or need to swing the wires to operate should be replaced.
First, cut off the plug and about 2 inch of the wire.
If the wires are lights. duty kind -
Two copper wires running side by side, each set in rubber insulation with uniform texture and color on the outside
You can replace the old plug with your own
No connection plug for the tool is required.
There are several styles.
There is a small bar or Cam on the top of a common variety.
Equipped plug, just lift the Cam, insert the unstripped light wire cut end into the slot on the side of the plug, then turn off the cam and lock the light line in place.
The other is assembled by squeezing the pins of the plug together.
To connect one of the plugs, pass the wire through the hollow cover and insert the plug body that connects the pins.
Squeeze the tip into parallel and press the body into the lid.
If the light line has separate copper and silver
Color wire, or if the insulation around one wire is white or ribbed and the other wire is black or smooth, the light is wired for polarized plugs.
This one has a prong wider than the other, and it is only suitable for wall sockets with corresponding wide and narrow slots.
This is safer than light.
Wiring on duty, but attention should be paid when repairing.
Buy a replacement plug labeled \"polarized.
\'\'According to the manufacturer\'s instructions, remove the new plug by unscrewing the new plug or separating the plug body from the cover with a screwdriver.
To connect the plug, first slide the cover onto the wire.
Then, use a knife to separate the two wires that make up the wires about inches.
Bring about one-
Insulating half an inch from the end of each wire.
Twist the wire that makes up the wire so that the end is not worn out.
Wrap the copper wire three times.
Quarter turning clockwise around brass-
Color terminal screws on the main body of the plug.
Wrap up the silver
Same color wire around Silver
Color terminal screws.
Tighten the two screws to make sure they are not released.
Done by pushing the body into the lid.
The cylindrical plug of the heavier light line is also connected by the terminal screw.
But since these plugs are rarely polarized, there is usually no need to match the wires with the screws.
As shown in the figure, tie the wires together to form an underwriter knot.
If the power cord is improperly processed after the plug is installed, this prevents the end from tightening.
After the AdvertisementIf changes the plug, the light still does not work, please unplug the plug again and replace the socket.
To remove it, find the position marked \"press\" along the seam where the socket housing meets the base, then press there with your thumb while twisting and pulling apart the part.
Remove the cardboard insulation sleeve under the housing, then loosen the terminal screw and loosen the main body of the socket from The Wire.
If there is a insurer knot, unlock the insurer knot, loosen the fixing screw under the base, and then pull the base off the rope to remove the base.
Buy a replacement outlet with the same electrical rating as the old one.
Install it like a plug with a terminal screw.
If there is copper and silver
Color wires and plugs are polarized to match the wires with the appropriate terminal screws on the socket.
No need to tie the insurer knot.
Reassemble the socket by sliding the insulation sleeve over the terminal and pressing the housing and base together.
The lights should work now.
If the light line is old or you want to convert to a polarized wire, you can also change the light line.
To replace the wire, cut it off about 1 feet from the bottom of the lamp and unlock any knots on the length of the rest (
Used to keep the power cord tight).
Peel about 3 inch of the insulation from the connected old wire and replacement wire, and then twist the bare ends of the two wires together for splicing.
Wrap the joint several times with tape, be careful not to greatly expand the perimeter of the wire.
Then pass the old wire through the top of the lamp, and at the same time the replacement wire is wired.
Cut off the new wire under the joint and connect it to the socket.
A version of this article appears on page C00004 of the National edition on March 30, 1989, with the title: Home improvement.