fluorescent tube floor lamp

by:Merttace     2020-04-07
This post-modern vertical fluorescent lamp is giante floor lamp of Gian Nicola (c. 1981).
Today, Nicola\'s lamps are a rare product sold at an auction of only 900 euros to euros.
I decided to try to make it myself and another challenge was to use only my local home improvement and do-it-
Home Depot, your own store.
I remade this lamp for $200 with ready-made components.
The most expensive part is the chrome strip that makes up the frame, and if you have other options, you can make this lamp for about half the price.
Ready to see how I built this vertical fluorescent lamp? Let\'s make!
Mitter on top, front and side.
The bottom and back will be the butt joint and set in the box.
In order to keep the box clean, I chose to do the Mitter joint.
The Mtire joint is made by tilting the end part to be connected at a 45 ° angle to form a corner.
I want to show the natural wood grain and the Mitter edge gives a nice clean edge compared to the docking.
If you are drawing your box, it will be much easier to dock.
I started by tearing the board 7 \"wide and trimming the edges.
The table saw is set to 45 °, a board is torn and there is a bevel on one side.
Next, the diagonal plate is cut into length;
There are two longer sections at the top and front of the box, and two shorter sections at the end of the box.
The end of each cutting plate is then diagonally connected.
2 × 7 \"x24\" board (
A long side of the diagonal, a square side, the two ends of the diagonal)2x 7\"x7\" (
Oblique connection between adjacent sides)
These parts will form the top, front and end of the box.
The back and bottom will not be visible and can be the butt joint.
The other board made these works.
On the top piece of wood, a center line is drawn vertically.
A vertical line is drawn approximately from each edge, which will be the position of the upright frame.
A hole saw is used to drill the opening.
Heavy chrome rod 1-
The diameter is 5/16 \", which is a strange size. I used a 1-
1/4 \"hole saw, and then widened the opening by hand with sandpaper.
You want a tight one.
Remove the Poles now and we\'ll install them later.
After the top opening is finished, the box can be assembled.
First stick the side of the Mitter to the top to ensure the square.
After the glue is dry, glue the Mitter front to the Mitter top to finish the front and top of the box.
Manicure is used to fix the edges.
Make sure all the assembled parts are square and then let the glue dry completely.
The bottom of the box is not diagonally connected and will be hidden by the front and side of the box.
I measured the bottom part size at 22 \"x6. 5\".
This piece was cut off from another project board and glued together.
More finishing nails were used.
The later part will be installed later.
To increase the stability of the Chrome Frame, a pin is added to the wood at the bottom, and the pole terminates in the box. A 1-
1/4 \"The stakes are perfectly suited to the inside of the chrome rod used for the frame and will be used as lateral support.
The pole is inserted into the inside of the box and a profile is tracked on a piece of wood at the bottom of the box.
Next, a wooden stake was removed and installed in the place of the tracking rod.
After assembling the box, you can drill holes for fluorescent connections at the top of the box.
The distance between the poles is divided by the number of lights I have.
A small opening was drilled, allowing the wires to pass through, and the fluorescent tube clamp would be caught later.
All the openings are ready and most of the boxes are assembled (
Except for the back)
The box can be polished to a smooth surface.
Starting with about 200 of sandpaper and moving to 400 of it, the surface of the box is polished smoothly.
With this box, we can turn our attention to removing the fluorescent lamp.
There are really not many fluorescent lights.
The lamp cover is broken in place and can be easily removed with an induction ballast inside (
Used to limit the amount of current)
, And wires connected to the end of the bulb connection.
The ballast is usually fixed in place by clips or bolts, easy to disassemble, and the connection end is also broken in place, which can be disassembled with little effort.
For this kind of lamp, we just need to extend one wire, power through the chrome bar and extend to the horizontal frame at the top.
To reduce the clutter in the box, the other wire is trimmed shorter.
The connector end is sliding
Installed on the wire, and can be easily disassembled by twisting while pulling the connector while fixing the wire.
The stock wire with the light is about 2\' long \'.
I cut one thread to be about 6 \"long and use the trimmed line to extend the other to about 3. 5\" long.
In this model of fluorescent strip light, there is an additional connection point for the series light.
Since we are connecting these lights in parallel, we can ignore this line, or (like me)
You can cut the wire.
Repeat for all 3 ballasts.
After all fluorescent strip lights are broken and the wires are shortened/lengthened, the ballast can be installed on thin sacrificial plywood for easy management.
Align and screw the ballast onto the sacrificial plywood using the original mounting bracket.
The ballast assembly is then glued to the bottom of the box with wood glue.
The ballast assembly is located between the rod anchors.
To hide the light connector, use a small piece of 1-1/2\" ABS pipe -
The fluorescent lamp connector fits almost completely.
When the light connectors come out of the fluorescent lamp, they have accessory clamps on them, and we need to trim them off in order to install them in the ABS housing.
Use the wire clip to trim the plastic clip on each optical connector until it is able to fit in the ABS pipe.
1/2 \"rings are cut from the ABS pipe, which will serve as the housing for the optical connector.
Because the connector is installed inside, there needs to be a way to pin the bulb through the shield, so a small gap will be cut on the shield ring.
After that, polish each ring with 1500 sandpaper and then polish it into highlights.
After removing the optical connector, the shortened wire is fed from the inside of the box through a small opening drilled before.
I use epoxy to connect the light connector to the top of the box, right above the wire opening of the hole, and the wire connector faces the opening of the hole.
Once the epoxy is cured, the wire can be inserted into the optical connector.
Before we finish the electrical work, we need to work on the chrome frame to support the light. I used heavy-
As a structure to support the fluorescent lamp, the chrome wall cabinet bar is used, and without it, the bulb is easily crushed and damaged.
Getting the exact height of the upright frame can be tricky, especially 90 ° bending takes up some of the height between the bulb connection points. I made a stand-
In the reference bulb, remove from the pin shards of the same length as one of the 4 bulbs I am using.
The chrome rod is inserted into the box, and the wooden pin bulb holder is placed on the top of the wooden box to determine how high the chrome rod will be.
I left myself some room for error and I weakened the poles.
A small incremental cut can then be made later to shorten the chrome column to the correct length.
The trimming of one of the cuts is used as a horizontal beam, which will hold the light connecting the horizontal and vertical components, which will explain some measurements.
Now, we will keep the wire rod the same before we improve the elbow.
Chrome pipe J-bend (quarter bend)
The radius of the pipe is tight and neatly installed around the Chrome closet rod I use. The J-
The bending needs to be slightly modified to be too long to be used from the shelf, so I trimmed the flange from the connection end and trimmed the tail shorter, a small 90 degree curve.
Use the burrs removal tool to remove the edge burrs at the cutting end, or you can smooth the edges with a King Kong sand cloth or sandpaper.
When the elbow completes the frame structure, the elbow is placed on the upright chrome tube and horizontal components to determine the correct length.
The chrome rod is then trimmed back to the correct length.
After the chrome tube is cut into length, we can pay attention to 1-
5/16 \"Chrome closet rod and 1-1/4\" J-bend, a 0. 06\" difference.
I built the chrome tube with a couple of wind fabric gaffer tape and installed it comfortably in J-bend.
Tape hidden in J-
Bending, any exposed tape is easily cut off with a sharp tool knife. Install the J-
Bending only to the column chrome plated rod, the horizontal connecting rod will be installed after the wire is lifted from the ballast inside the box.
As the short wire of the ballast has been installed to the top of the box, the slender wire connector is marked to the corresponding ballast.
These wires go through a small opening near the bottom of a chrome rod hidden in the box.
With the removal of the connector, the wire is fed into the chrome rod opening and up through the pipe and 90 ° bending.
There should be a wire length that can complete the electrical connection of the lamp.
The opening needs to be made in a horizontal chrome frame part that matches the electrical opening in the box.
Because part of the horizontal pipe will be hidden in the elbow J-
Bending, the measurements we made for the opening on the box do not match exactly.
I found that the easiest way to make sure that the electrical opening of the bulb is aligned is to find the center of the pipe vertically and mark it using a permanent mark.
The crossbar is then placed at the top of the box, the center mark is aligned, and the electrical opening on the other side of the box is transferred to the crossbar.
Make sure that all marks of the electrical opening on the crossbar are along the same plane.
Using the same drill bit as the electrical opening in the box, carefully drill holes on the horizontal chrome rod.
Just like the case where the bulb connector is hidden on the wood box, the top needs some.
The challenge here is that the shield needs to be fixed on a circular crossbar.
To do this 1-
The 1/4 \"hole saw is arranged at the end of the ABS pipe for cutting the crescent shape through the pipe.
The pipe is then cut below the Crescent Valley to complete the shape of the body cloth.
The Crescent side is mounted around the horizontal pipe, and the flat side will surround the bulb connector.
Like the box case, the small seams are cut into one side to allow the fluorescent bulb to pass through and fit into the fixture.
The Shouyi is glued to the appropriate position with epoxy resin.
Pass the wire through the horizontal pipe from the top of the chrome column and a wire through the drill hole.
These wires are labeled to match the corresponding ballast and connection points in the box.
I found an easy way to get the wire through the pipe and out of the opening, which is to make a twist at the end of each wire and hook it to the edge of the opening, then grab the wire with pliers and pull it out of the opening.
The bulb connector is then connected to the end of the wire and the excess wire is pushed back into the horizontal pipe.
Then insert the connector into the enclosure.
Then install the horizontal bar to J-
Bend, complete the frame assembly.
The pole socket, which is usually used to install the Chrome closet poles, is slid to the upright place, most of the time the fluorescent lamps are connected to the ceiling and you can\'t see how they are connected to the light switch.
The light is on the floor and needs to be powered to it through the power cord. A medium-
With the power cord on duty, you may want a long length so you can move it without being too close to the wall outlet.
These lights are connected in parallel.
The positive line from the ballast is twisted together, and then the negative line is twisted together.
The end of the power cord is stripped to expose the wire and then twisted to the corresponding ballast wire. Twist-
The connector is used to connect the power cord and fluorescent ballast.
With most of the box finished, we focused on finishing the back of the box case.
To compliment the clean and modern look of the rest of the box, I do not want to use any visible fasteners to connect the back panel, and I would also like to allow any repairs or checks to be made to open the box.
I chose a sliding fit wood with a simple finger hole in order to remove it.
I measured the rear opening size and cut a panel from the remaining project board during box creation.
Remember to drill your finger hole before you start installing the panel to the back of the box, otherwise, it is possible for you to have the panel fully installed in the box and not be able to take it out again.
Since this panel is secured in the appropriate position by a tight fit, there is no herringbone seat cut.
I would suggest cutting this piece a little larger than the opening and then polishing the edges until it fits.
To accommodate the power cord, a notch was drilled in one corner, allowing the panel to slide into a flush position without squeezing the power cord.
To prevent the back plate from entering the box too far when it is closed, I added small wooden splints to keep the panel at the right level.
Check the thickness of the board and draw a line of the thickness of the board with a pencil.
Take six small splints from the scrap wood head and fix them in place along the offset of the thickness of the board.
After the glue is dry, the rear panel can be installed and polished on the back of the box to ensure a flush or even connection between the teh panel and the rest of the box.
I like the look of natural wood grain.
With no mechanical fasteners, I spent a lot of time and effort showing the wood grain of the box.
I used Danish oil for sealing and protecting wooden cases, a hard oil
Matte finish.
Wear protective gloves and work in a well ventilated place where Danish oil is placed on a rag and placed in wood.
After the application, the excess oil was wiped off.
The potential risk of spontaneous combustion of Danish oil is very small, so be sure to dry them before processing.
After the Danish oil is finished, the rest is to move the lights in place and install the bulbs.
Like a normal overhead fluorescent lamp, the bulb is inserted through the gap in the connector, turning for a quarter, both of which lock them in the appropriate position and complete the electrical connection.
There are no switches like ordinary ceiling lights, so we need to consider the operation.
I originally wanted to do the 1 feet operation switch, but found a remote switch with the same price as the 1 feet switch.
The power cord is plugged into the remote switch box and then the box is plugged into the wall socket.
This project is a great way to learn and practice new skills, and it\'s fun to build.
This eye-catching design works well in any room and will certainly be the focus of visual attention and the center of the conversation.
While it\'s hard for mitred box to build results with extra care, making mitred edge really stands out and the combination of natural wood grain and industrial Chrome looks great.
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