Home Depot sells a very good Lithonia Lighting Vela flush ceiling mount lamp that has been installed by thousands of people. We have to start over. Turn this light into a more valuable light. of-a- Very beautiful floor lamp. The lighting will be taken apart and all the components will be used in this building. The fixture contains a circular fluorescent bulb with a diameter of 12 \"and a circular fluorescent bulb with a diameter of 8. These bulbs are very old schools, but the new version of the bulbs is efficient, affordable and gives a wonderful light. This project requires a certain level of skill and don\'t forget the safety and safety glasses for power tools! I\'m not a wood worker so you can do it too if I can! There are two parts of the building, lights and brackets. Save time: Many parts are designed on an automatic sketch and printed to PDF with the printed PDF page size accurate. No measuring! Some measurements of wood cutting, others are on the cutting template. Bill of Materials: I have plans to enter this in the Home Depot sponsored fixture and lighting contest, and I decided to see if I could build this using parts easily accessible to Home Depot. 1 - Linsonia 10511 KR M4 belazun- SKU #517104, lighting fixture store ( Note: Home Depot described this as a light fixture. No, there are two lights. )3 - 1 1/4x48 \"hard wooden pile #1561932- Oak board 1 \"x 3\" x 48 \"( Nominal size 3/4 \"x 2 1/2 \")SKU # 6173182 - Red Oak 1/4 \"x 6\" x 48 \"SKU #2249508- 1/4 \"x 1/4x36\" 3 ft. x 1/4 in. Wooden square stick, SKU #4776451 SKU #340453 of acrylic broken ice ceiling lamp ( This is the only translucent panel I can find in the store. It\'s very fragile and you might want to replace it with it. )2 - 8 SKU #1 set 2 FinialsMartha Stewart live ball 1-212 screw eye bag3/8 in. Wooden SKU with antique mahogany finish #6649131- Heavy Brown-Duty Self-Adhesive 1 in. Felt Pads (16-Pack)SKU # 1245041 - 1/2 \"x 96\" aluminum corner SKU #7971624- Everbilt #8-screws and nuts32 x 1/2 in. Phillips-Slotted Round- Head screw (8-Pack)SKU # 5285241 - Leviton 6-on/off wire switch Mini finger wheel rope switch- Brown SKU #1626771- 12\' extended cord SKU #145009 White GlueStainClear urethane150 sand paperPicture wireFishing lineshls required: band saw 1/8 \"24 T bladeTable sawMiter sawdrillersphillips screwdriverDremel heavy cut From the wheel and 1/2. 60- Coarse sand grinding belt cut metal straight edgeHammerCenter punchUtility kni knife with blue tape or masking tape. Bit: 1/16, 1/8, 11/64, 1/41, 1/4 forstner bit SKU #577684 metal halide lamp base of center part don\'t \"with so now is remove center of good time. Use Dremel tools with heavy cutting Disconnect the wheel and cut at 10 \"diameter. The clamp saw can also use a fine tooth blade. There is a ridge or bump from the opposite side of the chrome clip holding the bulb. 10 \"mark at the bottom inside the ridge. Smooth edges using sandpaper or circular files. Print a PDF page of the metal lamp base drill template. Print according to actual size (100%). There is a 3 \"validation bar to make sure the template size is correct. All PDF templates have blank pages that I can\'t avoid. Skip the blank page. The base of the metal lamp is larger than 8 sheets of 1/2 \"x 11\" paper, so there are 4 templates that can be cut and tape together (A-to-A, etc) In order to remove the lampshade clip, three half circles are cut off. Direction does not matter, install the template on the lampshade clip. Paste the template onto the base of the metal lamp and mark the position of the dotted line logo on the bump that goes all the way. The bumps in the area are cut to remove the ballast bracket. Center hole position. Tip: Put a piece of wood below to support the metal. Drill out all 11/64 holes. Clean the holes with larger hand drills. As shown in the figure, cut the gap using the Dremel tool. The plastic rod holding the lampshade will be halfway through the handle. This will allow them to remove the lamp holder bracket. Material: 1/2 \"x 1/2\" aluminum corner. Print a pdf page of the bracket template. Print according to actual size (100%). There is a 3 \"validation bar to make sure the template size is correct. The ballast bracket is larger than 8 sheets of 1/2 \"x11\" paper, so there are 2 templates that can be cut and tape together (A-to-A, B-to-B, etc) Lamp holder. Make 12. Tape the lamp head bracket template to both sides of the angle. As shown in the figure, all the holes are punched in the center and all 11/64 holes are drilled. Use a 1/4 bit to gently touch the hole to remove excess aluminum from the drill. Cut 12 brackets on the mark between the holes. Scatter the pieces in the sand. Wire bracket. Make 1. Use the template and walkthrough 2 above-11/64\" and 1 - As shown in figure 1/4 \"hole. Cut 1 1/2 \"long aluminum angle. Clean up the holes and sand above. Ballast bracket. Make 1. Use the template above and walkthrough 6- As shown in figure 11/64 \"hole. Cut the template block and stick it together with tapeA and B-B. Cut aluminum angle 12 5/8 \"long. Clean up the holes and sand above. Tip: It\'s easy to drill aluminum, but it sticks to the drill like bubble gum. Use a drop of WD- Cooking oil or cooking oil. There is a drop every 4 holes. Material: 1/4 \"x 5 1/2\" x 48 \"oak veneer, 1/4\" square pin 12. The 1/4 \"x 5 1/2\" x 48 \"oak veneer is used to secure the bulbs and plastic lenses in place. Cut two 48 pieces into 12-7 7/8\" pieces. The last one will be a bit long and cut more out of these pieces, that\'s fine. Print the lamp head template PDF file and cut out the outline of the shape with scissors. Print according to actual size (100%). There is a 3 \"validation bar to make sure the template size is correct. Don\'t cut two dotted lines or short dotted lines next to the holes, we\'ll use them later. As shown, tape the cut out shape to the top edge of the 1/4 \"oak veneer. Don\'t cover the two holes in the paper. Track shapes. Hold the paper you are tracking with your fingers. Mark the center of two holes with ice cones or nails. It\'s just a slight depression so we know where to drill in the future. Lift the paper and mark it at the small dotted line next to the hole. Take off the paper. Don\'t worry about the gap where the tape is. Fill in the blanks with straight edges. Cut the shape with a fine tooth 1/8 \"blade on a band saw or clamp saw. Scatter the pieces in the sand. The Dremel drum sander works well on the curve. We will drill two holes next. Because we have a lot of holes, it is easier to use the drill fixture. Drill holes using a ballast bracket as a drill fixture. As shown in the figure, the clamping fixture, the top edge is aligned with the top of the notch. The right side is aligned with the dotted line. Drill two 11/64 holes. Cut the lamp head template on two dotted lines. As shown in figure 4, place the pieces and tape them in place. Mark the wood. A few marks are OK, they are just for bonding to align the wood in the next section. Cut 1/4 \"square bars 5 1/8\" long with a 15 degree slope at each end. Cut 48. Tip: on the band, I put a blue band and drew a line at 15 degrees. I stuck a piece of scrap like \"L\" with tape as a stop. See picture #5 to keep the light bar on the lamp holder in the correct direction. Apply a very small amount of glue to the tape. Two sticks on both sides Align the outer edge with the line on the lamp holder. Align the top edge even with the top. The bottom will be far below the bottom of the lamp holder. Stick the bar to all the lamp holders on one side. When the glue dries, flip them and stick the tape to the other side. When the glue dries, sprinkle whatever is needed at this point. Dye or paint all the pieces and coat them with two layers of transparent coating. You may want to get everything dirty right after the light rack is finished. Material: 2 \'x4 \'cracked ice plastic panel 12. Plastic is fragile if you haven\'t figured it out yet. Print pdf small plastic lens template. Apply the template to smoothing (reverse) Side of plastic. Print according to actual size (100%). There is a 3 \"validation bar to make sure the template size is correct. Carefully cut with a fine-tooth band saw blade. Cut slowly and cut very slowly when you reach the end of the cut. Cut 1 \"x 1\" cut on a piece, as shown in the figure. Material: Lithonia Lighting plastic lampshade, fishing line, picture line printing pdf of plastic lampshade template. Print according to actual size (100%). There is a 3 \"validation bar to make sure the template size is correct. Cut the plastic lampshade template. Glue 4 pieces together to form a template. Stick two pieces of tape together with \". Slide the two pieces under the double chrome strip ( It will slide below). Center the seam on the double chrome strip. Tape other parts (B-B, C-C, D-D. The double wire should be centered on the double chrome strip. Attach the complete template to the plastic lampshade with tape to secure it in place. Drill a 1/16 hole in each position at the top of the ridge. Remove the template. Cut 16 pieces of fish line 18 \"long. The line I use is small and I don\'t know what size it is. To prevent the line from passing through, I cut a drawing line long enough to go all the way around the circumference of the diameter of the hole drill. Temporarily tie the wire ring to the top of the lampshade and tie a fishing line at each hole position. Make a double knot around each dress. Remove the drawing line with 16 fishing lines. Put it under the lampshade and pass through each hole from inside. Fixed in the appropriate position with tape. We will connect the other end to the light rack later. I drew a few inches and stuck the line with tape. When I put all the lines on the tape, I pulled the rest down while pulling the ring in place. Tip: to keep the lines as long as possible, we don\'t want to use too much when knotting. Because the big hand directs it to become tough, tie the knot around the drawing line and leave 1/2 at the end when you tighten it. Tie the second one with a needle nose clamp or tweezers. Make a loop, reach out and grab the end and tighten. Material: 3/4x2 1/2 oak. This piece will have two cuts of 22 1/2 degrees to form the angle of the bracket. This piece is made of oak provided by Home Depot and you can avoid the glue steps if you have a solid oak. Cut 4 pieces 21/2 long from 3/4 \"x 2 1/2\" oak. Clip 4 pieces of glue and clip to the end of the remaining stock and make 5 pieces as shown in figure 3. This long one gives you a handle that you can use. Let the glue dry for 24 hours. When the glue dries, the least amount of cleaning is done even on the sides. Be careful when cleaning the cut, do not go through the part of the handle. More parts require the rest of the handle. As shown in Figure #5, skim 22 1/2 on each side. The second cut will remove the long part. As shown in figures #6 and #7, drill two 1 1/4 holes with Forstner drill bit 1 at the center of the Tilt side. The drill bit must be 90 degrees horizontally and vertically. Drill a 1/4 hole in picture #2 for the work piece shown in the lamp rope. Scatter the pieces in the sand. Material: 3/4x2 1/2 oak. Now that you have finished the intermediate connector, we will add a certain amount of complexity and make a composite cut. A single 22 1/2 degree cut matches the cut in the intermediate connector, which is connected by a pin. These two composite cuts give 22 1/2 degree cuts to make the top pin level, and two 22 1/2 degree angles to separate the top pin at 45 degrees. Cut 5 pieces 6 \"long from 3/4\" x 2 1/2 \"oak. Like the last step, stick the pieces to the remaining inventory and make 6 pieces with a long handle. Let the glue dry for 24 hours. As shown in Figure #4, clean cutting and 22 1/2 degree cutting are performed when the glue is dry. Be careful when cleaning the cut, do not go through the part of the handle. The long handle can now be cut off. Mark the center line of the part. The next two cuts meet in the middle. If you have a composite herringbone saw, make a composite 22 1/2 and 22 1/2 degree cut as shown in figure 4. If you don\'t have a composite saw, cut a piece of 2x4 22 1/2 degrees and screw it to the bottom, as shown in figure 5. In both cases, twist the long piece of 2x4 to the bottom to make the handle. As shown in Figure #6, 22 1/2 degree cutting is performed. Turn the part and cut the second 22 1/2 on that side. As shown in the figure, drill three 1/4 holes deep with forstner drill bit 1. Scatter the pieces in the sand. Material: 1 1/4 \"pin two pieces 19\" long. Cut a piece of 11 \"and cut a piece of 46\" long. Scatter the pieces in the sand. Place a piece of blue or masking tape on one side of two 19 \"blocks. Place a marker 1 from the end and 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 and 15. Drill a hole 1/16 \"1/2\" deep in each position. Remove the tape. Material: 3/4x2 1/2 print pdf of main base template. Print according to actual size (100%). There is a 3 \"validation bar to make sure the template size is correct. Cut two 21 \"long pieces from 3/4\" x 2 1/2 \"oak. Use the template to cut 22 1/2 degree angles on each piece. Cut one piece 5 \"long. As shown in the figure, glue the pieces together. When the glue is dry, drill 1 1/4 \"hole 1\" deep in the base with Forstner drill bit \". Scatter the pieces in the sand. Confession: When does a mistake become a feature? The plan is to let the pins rise vertically and rotate two 45 degrees so that the pins that keep the light are perpendicular to the floor. Excessive care is used ( Measure twice and cut once. ) I missed the angle and drilling. The column coming out of the base is compensated at an angle of 11 degrees. This is your chance to do the same thing. Dry install the workpiece and place a height on the top pin and make corresponding compensation before drilling. Tip: on my android phone I have an app called Xclinometer which is a very good level. It is in degrees, percentages, and roof angles (5/12). Material: the clearance and gravity in the fine felt cushion hole will make the top pin in the depression of the support fixture assembly not parallel to the base. When the glue dries, I make a fixture to keep the pins above about inches. See above. Dry parts, check if everything is right. Place the 46 \"pin on the main base. Make sure all pins can be inserted all the way to the bottom of the hole. Place the intermediate connector at the other end of the pin. Place the 11 \"pin on the other side of the intermediate connector. The upper connector is mounted on the other end of the 11 \"pin. As shown in the figure, two 19 \"components are installed in the upper connector. Rotate the pin so that the screw eye is outside. Rotate the intermediate connector so that the side of the connector is parallel, and the pin is consistent with the center line of the base. Rotate the upper connector to make the two pins parallel to the floor. Place pencil marks at both ends of the pins and connectors so that it will be easier when you reassemble the parts to align. Check all alignment with level. Remove the pieces and lay them out so the pieces don\'t get confused. Put the white glue into the lamp holder and insert the pin. Align the mark and wipe the excess glue. Glue the rest. Check all alignment with level. After the glue is dry, check the lamp holder and polish it wherever necessary. Dyeing or painting the lamp holder. When the stain dries, apply two clear coats. Install the two finishes to the end of the top pin. Mark the center of the end of the pin and drill 1/8 \"hole 1\" deep \". Screw in finial. Connect the 4 felt pads to the bottom of the lamp holder. Material: Lisboa ballast, month- 32 screws and nuts, two 8- 32 screws and nuts and attach the ballast to the ballast holder. Use 4 screws and nuts and attach the bracket to the base of the metal lamp. The screws come up from the bottom. Use two 8- 32 screws and nuts and Wire brackets are attached. See #1 above. Use two 8- 32 screws and nuts and bolt the corner frame to the lamp holder. Bracket bolt on the right side of the lamp holder. See picture #2 screw through metal bracket with nut on wood side. The light line must now be connected. This requires feeding the wire through the lamp holder. Find a position where you can work on the lights and let the lights stand nearby and don\'t trip over the wires. Cut off the extension cord socket of the extension cord. Separate the two wires for 6 \". Look at the plug. One of the plug blades is wider than the other. Carefully trace the wire on that side to the other end and cut the wire about 1/4 \"to mark it. Send the command from the back through the socket middle connector hole. Feed the wires along the way. Pass the wire through the hole on the lamp aluminum bracket. Pull the line from the end and make a knot on the rope, about 8 \". Peel the end of the wire 3/4. Connect the shorter wires to the black line. Twist the two wires together with your fingers. Keep a pair of wires around 1 \"from the end of the wire and connect the wires with the orange twist connector. Connect the other wire to the white wire. Pull the rope back until the knot rests on the aluminum bracket. Tie the excess wires to the ballast holder. Place the metal lamp base up. See #1 above. Connect a lamp holder Bolt to the metal lamp base, the screw goes through the metal lamp base, and there are nuts on the side of the lamp holder. Do not tighten any screws until they are done, we will adjust over time. Just tighten your finger a little. Place both lights in the Assembly and tape them to the first lamp holder. ( So you don\'t give it up like I did :) Insert the lamp into the ballast. Make sure the 32 w Connector is connected to the headlight bubble. Orient the bulb connectors so that they are on the extension cord holder. Place the second lamp head around 1/3, and the third lamp head around 2/3. This will capture the lights so you don\'t have to worry about dropping the lights. Remove the tape. Now, carefully turn the lamp assembly on the right side up with a metal base on the top. Install the rest of the lamp holder. Adjust the angle so that each point points to the point on the other side and everything looks uniform. When installing the bracket, make sure the bulb is not in the binding and the bulb connector is aligned with the power cord. Tighten the screw finger at this point and insert a plastic lampshade at each position on the crack side to the outside. Only when all the lamp holders are equal distance will the lens enter. If it is tight, the next one will loose. Loosen the lamp holder screws and adjust until all lenses slide in. Plastic should be uniform with the top of the lamp holder. Tighten all the screws. The lens with the cut is installed at the outlet of the wire. Remove the plastic where the three plastic shading rods are located. Material: screw eye, switch on/off. On two top pins, on each pre- Drill position. Screw to the end of the thread, so there is some prominence. Align all screw eyes vertically. Tip: You can insert the screw eye head in the drill motor to insert the screw eye. Some care is needed to center it. A double chrome strip on the plastic lampshade will be evenly centered between the holes in the fishing line. This is the front of the lens. Slide the main lampshade to the fixture assembly with the wire on the back, then rotate the lever to connect to the lampshade. Place the fixture assembly under the lamp holder, with the correct height and the cable facing the back. I used a table and stacked some wood to reach 42 \"at the bottom of the lamp assembly \". Put it under the lamp stand. Use level and gasket if necessary. By connecting the fishing line to the screw eye on the lamp holder base, connect the main lens to the lamp holder base. Connect the line closest to the front of the right lens to the front screw eye on the right positioning pin. Tie the bottom of the screw eye with a double knot. Put a small amount of tension on the production line. Connect the line closest to the front of the left lens to the front screw eye on the left positioning pin. The two lines should be as uniform as possible. Connect the line 8 on the right to the last screw eye on the right. Tie the line 8 on the left with the last screw eye on the left. The goal is to tie the two lines together so that they are the same length, place the lens between the two pins and maintain the level. Now we can connect the other lines. The order of queuing is in front-to-back. The goal is to fasten the line without relaxing other lines so that it has a certain tension. Some lines need to be tightened when all the lines are connected. Tighten a small amount of the screw eye, push the line to the back and let it wrap around the stem to increase tension. Try to align all the spiral eyes vertically or horizontally so it looks good. Remove the bracket and re-check the tension. Cut off the extra fish line. Bend the remaining three plastic lenses in place. This should be taken care to avoid damaging the plastic. Pull the wire back through the lamp holder middle connector. Leave some slack. About 1 feet below the intermediate connector, install the on/off switch by following the direction of the switch. Plug in the lights, turn on the switch and enjoy yourself!