Pendant (hanging / swag) Of all the indoor fixtures, the fixture is probably the most versatile. You don\'t even need a table to put them. They can go anywhere in the room as the ceiling is convenient everywhere! :) In this Instructure, I will show you three different ways to make custom hanging lights. The picture below shows three styles: make one, or all the styles above! You are strongly advised to take 1 a, B and c23I ( Or at least read through) My free guide light lesson before you do these lights. In this note I will show you how to build the lights instead of how to connect them. In my light class, I reviewed it: each hanging chandelier in this class has an upper part ( Or similar version with the same function). Remember that the most important thing to add to the pendant light rope Group is strain elimination -- Whether it\'s a small metal that enters the socket as painted above, or an external metal used in a faux Dixon pendant. The strain relief device maintains the weight of the shadow and protects the wire/socket connection from being pulled out. The beauty of hanging/chandelier is that there are so many potential shades hidden in various unexpected places! For the first chandelier, I went to the Container Store and found options for about a million potential shades. Thanks to the choice of low-heat glowing compact fluorescent and LED bulbs, almost any material can turn into a shadow without worrying about it melting or causing a fire. I decided to use these three waste paper baskets to illustrate how to make pendant shades with several different materials: natural fiber, wood and plastic. You can choose to customize them ( Like the wood I made)or not ( Like plastic. . The part you need to make one of these simple pendant lights is: * you only need this piece if you are going to use a natural fiber basket as your shade. Approximate cost of parts ( Pre-tax & Shipping): $37. 75 tools, you will need to make any of these three pendants: you will need to make additional tools in wooden or plastic tones: buy or make your own 15-foot long rope set. I teach you how to connect your own wires in lesson 2 6 of my lamp class. If you are doing the wire yourself I would suggest placing the line switch 2\' from the plug-but of course, depending on where it hangs, feel free to place it anywhere in the wire, this is the most convenient for you. Don\'t forget to test your connection before inserting! Part reminder for the wire set: you need the tool to connect the wire set: in order to convert the object found to a shadow, we need to make a hole in the \"dead center\" at the top of it, big enough for the socket to go through. If we are not accurate about the position of the hole, the shadow will become smaller and smaller. But don\'t worry, it\'s easy to achieve this in the shape and material of almost all the potential shades. I will introduce three ways here. We will start with the simplest natural fiber basket with the lowest technical content. This one only needs manual tools, no power drill. :) Place the socket thread on the center mark ( There is usually one) At the bottom of the basket You can use it if you want to confirm that your ruler is centered By measuring the edge from the socket thread to the bottom in all four directions ( North, south, east, west or every 90 degrees). Track the socket ring on the basket with a thin marker pen or pen. Use a small wire cutter to cut the fibers and connecting threads in the socket circle you draw- Keep the line in an empty circle of about 3/8. ( Remove the center knot and don\'t leave it like the picture above. ) This is it! So easy right? You will see that the result brings you a lot of style that you work hard on. Given that the connection line for this one is plastic, I don\'t recommend using any bulbs except for low energy LED or compact fluorescent. Next is how to find the center and drill holes in the wooden container on the top of the square: you need a ruler, scissors, pencil and a piece of paper to help you find the center point of the \"Aegis. ( It is not accurate enough to draw on the top using a ruler and pencil, because this ridge is higher than the surface to be drilled. ) Measure one side of the square, between the interior of the wooden side block. Using this size, cut a square sheet of paper that will be as close as possible to the interior of the wood lip on the surface to be drilled (like pictured). Fold the square from the corner to the corner in two ways to remember the center point. Mark the center with \"x. Slide the paper in place. Mark the center on the wood using the center punch and hammer. Next, set up your rig. Put down the grip pad and fix the two pieces of wood in the \"v\" shape that is consistent with the edge of the table. Fix the wood on the table with a clip. This setting gives you some pressure when you keep the object in place while drilling, and the mat helps prevent the object from spinning. Fix the hole saw on the card tray of the drill bit and wear your safety glasses. Remember: never wear gloves when drilling holes Even with a hand saw. Align the pilot bit of the hole with the mark of the center punch, slowly and steadily drilling. A perfect fit! I recommend using low energy bulbs all the time ( LED or compact fluorescent) Because they emit very little heat. But if you prefer to use Edison-style bulbs that generate more heat, it is a good idea to drill some escape holes for this heat so that it will not adversely affect the finish on the shadow. I am fascinated by the quality of the light of the Edison bulb, so I usually add extra holes in case I put them into the magnificent power of the warm glow. You can measure them in your paper mill, or you can measure their position in freestyle. I will use a 1/4 drill. 1/2\". Now, drill a hole in the plastic container. The process is very similar to the wooden one. You will notice that there is a mark on the bottom of most plastic containers. This is the injection part of the material during the manufacturing process, so it is very safe to assume that it is a dead center. Because of this, there is no need to make paper templates. Note: If you are trying to find a center of a non-plastic round bottom, you can learn how to do this in the instructions for your next project, faux Dixon pendant. Wear safety glasses and drill holes carefully! The plastic is soft, so the pilot bit may be a little hovered at the beginning. Just take it slowly and reposition it as needed in order to keep its dead center as much as possible. If you want to add air holes in this shade, you can certainly, but it is not as necessary as wood, because you should not use anything other than low energy ( = Low heat output) Light bulb with plastic container. Plastic melting using incandescent bulbs is really dangerous. There are many ways to customize these shades. You can embroider colorful shapes on the woven basket with yarn ( Check out jessyratfink\'s wonderful course on embroidery , Or draw a permanent color mark on the top of the plastic. I chose to customize the wood by drilling holes in the pattern I designed so that the light would glow and highlight the shape. The first thing I do is brainstorm and choose my favorite mode. I walked with the one in the middle of the first row, and the steps to turn my grass map into a hole pattern in the shadow are as follows: on a large piece of paper, track the side of the shadow. With a ruler and pencil ( Or freestyle! ) , Redraw the pattern to zoom on the shadow outline. I drew a neat circle with a compass, and then used it to mark the equal distance around to indicate where to drill. I decided that the distance between the hole and the hole was 3/4. Crop the template along the tracked shadow line. Support the shadows so it\'s easier to see when you drill holes and tape the template in place. Put on your safety glasses, decide the size of the hole/drill, and drill all your holes carefully. Repeat the other three sides if needed There is rest on both sides so your arms/shoulders don\'t get mad at you. And. . . . . This is just one of many possible interesting results of mixing a small amount of creative energy with some elbow grease! ! Get crazy! Get wild! Or stay simple. Whatever it is, these lights represent your style. Connecting the curtains to the rope is very direct for wooden and plastic curtains. Simply thread the socket through the shadow hole and pass the shadow ring through the socket from within the shadow to make both ( Line Groups and Shadows)become one. Insert the socket into the shadow hole. Twist the shadow ring from inside the shadow onto the socket thread. Like so! The same is true of plastic! Easy peasy. The shadow of the natural fiber basket only requires more effort. Before inserting the socket into the hole you cut out, screw the extra shadow ring to the socket with the shoulder down. You can then proceed to insert the socket into the shadow hole and thread it from the inside to the second shadow ring. The reason for the two rings is to better sandwich and protect the thread and fiber end. My friends, how did you turn a \"waste\" into a wonderful thing! I\'m a self- A drug addict who calls himself Pinterest. I said. I hid beautiful pictures of beautiful things. I always see the lights I like- Full of hope, click on the store link-- I found out that the single hanging pendant of my dream is $550. :( As a designer, I respect the talent of others and the work in their design, but often I can\'t afford the real deal. So this pendant is about mixing the designer\'s inspiration with elbow grease to make something outside of my own wallet alliance. I\'m obsessed with Tom Dixon\'s lights. see above) It\'s been a long time and I decided it was time to see if I could make my own version. Enter the faux Dixon chandelier. Note: making shadows for this beauty requires drilling a very large hole in a metal bowl. It is safe to do it slowly, well done, but if you have any reservations and are not satisfied with the idea, I suggest you choose a different pendant to make it. If you choose to make, here\'s your shopping list: Note: I didn\'t add a line switch to this wire group because I plugged it into the socket connected to the light switch. But feel free to add one ( Lesson 5 of my light class)if you need it. Approximate cost ( Pre-tax & Shipping): $40. 00 (NOT $550. 00 ! ! ! ) Recommended bulb: 40 w clear bulb or any other short bulb that does not stretch out in shadow. The tools needed to make this pendant are: once you have all the parts and tools, it\'s time to make it! This is a wire that causes an abnormal information in this \"possible. For this set of wires, I used a strain relief device that is not covered in my lamp class, so I will give a detailed step --by- How to assemble the steps of this strain elimination. Remove the socket into three parts: hat, Shell and socket interior- Twist the strain relief device and separate the two pieces. Slide the strain release cap onto the rope first, thin end. Carefully slide the other half to the end of the rope first. Don\'t connect them. Slide the seat cover down to meet the strain elimination position, starting with a small end. Screw the socket cover into the threaded end of the half part of the boss and tighten the screws inside the cover using your small flat head screwdriver (like pictured). This fixes the socket cover to the strain relief device. Then move the wire down about 1 feet so there is no problem with the wiring inside the socket. Connect the inside of the socket in the same way as the SVT practice line set up in lesson 3 of my light lesson. The only different thing I do here is to use a thin tape to prevent the cloth cover from wearing, not the glue, because it will hide well under strain relief. Slide the socket cover/strain relief semi-combo back to the wire until the inside of the socket is snug in the lid. Secure the socket interior comfortably inside the socket cover, slide the strain release cover up to meet the other half, and align the pin with the matching slot on the lid, carefully twist the strain elimination back together. Adding plugs for this wire group is exactly the same as the SVT practice wires set up in lesson 4 of my lamp class. Connect it! ! You got this. This is what the wire set you finished should look like. Unless you decide to add a line switch, there will be another \"bumper\" on the wire \". :) Use continuity tester or more The meter tests the connection before proceeding to the next step. This pendant is another great example of how almost anything can be a lamp! Or part of it. :) This serving bowl is the perfect choice to imitate the appearance of the clap lamp. In order to turn it into the shadow we need, we must first drill a hole in it that can hold the diameter of the thread of the phenol socket. The 1 9/16 hole saw I recommend is perfect for the job. Here\'s how to make this magic happen: Place the bowl face down on the grip mat and in the corner of two pieces of wood sandwiched on the table. When you drill the Bowl, the fixed Wood will give you something to press/pull the bowl so it doesn\'t jump like you start drilling the bowl. To find the center point of the bowl base-- Where to start drilling-- Measure the diameter of the bowl base with a ruler or tape measure. Divide it into two parts, find the radius, and set the compass to that measurement. Draw a circle on a piece of waste paper and cut out the circle. Mark the center with a pencil ( Where is the compass point hole)with an \'x\'. Fix the paper ring on the bowl base and mark the center on the metal bowl using the center punch and hammer. Should play three times at the end of the punch. Put on your safety glasses and fix the hole saw drill bit on the hand drill. No gloves! They are a safety hazard when using any rotating tool/device. Use your non-Bowl to push down to the corner of the wood to fix the Bowl Leading Hand, align the pilot position of the hole saw with the center punch mark. Now start drilling slowly and carefully to keep the pressure from drilling down steady. Once the pilot drill bit goes through, the hole saw is in contact with the bowl, try to keep the drill bit level to the surface of the bowl, or the bowl may jump a bit. Continue drilling until the hole saw passes through the metal of the bowl. Use a semi-circular metal gear to clean the edges of the holes and remove any burrs if necessary. Next, fold a small piece of 220 sandpaper and polish the edge of the hole into sand to make it smoother. Run around the edge using a folded tissue to check for obstacles or areas that require more filing/sanding. You want to make sure there is no sharp spot to cut you when dealing with shadows. Once you are satisfied with the smoothness of the edges, put the bowl aside. Now is the time to carefully clean up the metal fragments. Before moving the wood to another position, remove the clips and gently shake them. Gently pick up the grip pad and shake it in the big trash can ( Still wearing glasses! ! ). Make sure there are no more pieces of metal on it before rolling it up and putting it away. Sweep the remaining pieces of metal into the paper towel with a hand broom or folding paper towel and discard it. Wipe the working face with a damp cloth for the last time. It\'s time to paint the Bowl/shade! To prevent paint from entering the bowl, tape the holes from the inside using masking tape. Then, in a well ventilated place or outside like a paint booth, place the bowl holes up/down on some cardboard or newspaper and spray outside with a layer of primer and two layers of matte black paint, let each coat dry completely before adding the next one. Spray from top to bottom at a 45 degree angle to prevent paint from entering the bottom edge of the bowl. Now we have fun. Super fast) Part of putting it together! ! Remove the shade ring from the socket thread ( If you put it back) And insert the thread of the socket into the hole of the shadow. Screw back the shadow ring and fix the shadow to the socket. Et voila! ! You now have a designer pendant at the height of the lamp fashion and only need a fraction of the cost of fashion. One of my favorite things is when unrelated objects come together. This pendant is a good example. Sunshades are designed for fixing Glass sunshades. The top of the sun visor has a lip caught by the sun visor bracket screw, fixing the sun visor on the bracket. Size of shading frame from 2 1/4 \"-8\". 4 \"antique brass cool bracket screws secure the shade. As you may have guessed now, I like to re- Use items and troll thrift stores to find orphans who can be included in the lamps. When I saw this retro Tupperware jello mold, I had a feeling that it would get along well with a 4 \"fitter and I was right! ! The semi- The mold, made of translucent plastic, is a perfect light diffuser with a Victorian-style feel in shape that coincides with the bronze 4 \"bracket and also has the look of the past I chose a keyless antique brass socket with uno threads to secure the curtain holder on the Brown wire and antique plug to further secure the old-world status. In addition to the natural fiber waste basket pendant, this is the simplest pendant and requires the least amount of tools. ( No drill or saw drill) Here\'s your shopping list for this guy: about the cost ( Pre-tax & Shipping): $40. 55 * Note: Please use SVT if you decide to use a glass shade instead of a Jello mold (18/2 or 18/3) Instead of twisted wires. It is not designed to maintain such a large weight. Bulb recommendation: Low Power old Edison bulb, or cool dimmable LED version of this old bulb. The tools needed to make this project are: once you have all the parts and tools, it\'s time to make it! Let\'s wire the socket first. Unscrew the seat cover and remove the parts. 5/8 \"of the wire ends. ( There is no need to remove the cloth sleeve first. ) Then slide the threaded ring connecting the cover and the housing back to the cover ( Thread relative to cover) Then slide the combination onto the rope and open a small opening first. Follow the steps of the SPT to connect the socket- Practice set in lesson 3 of my light class, hot wire to hot/brass terminals, neutral wire for neutral/Silver terminals. Then trim off any excess cloth surface with a wire cutter. Once done, grab the wire with one hand, grab the socket with the other hand, and then re- Twist the wire all the way to the bottom of the socket. Use the small channel lock clamp to add the metal strain relief device to the wire directly below the socket. Squeeze tight to make sure it curl firmly on the wire. Slide the lid up the wire so that the bottom of the socket is snug in the lid and make sure the socket label is aligned with the cover slot. ( Above left) Next, place the threaded ring on the cover, slide the shell over the top of the socket, and screw it back together. Great job! Plug in now! Unscrew the plug screw and remove the pin. Slide the plug housing into the wire end opposite the socket. Prepare wire wiring by stripping 5/8 of insulation, fans and twisted wires. Make the clockwise \"u\"-shaped end and attach the hot/black line to the narrow prong/brass screw terminal. Trim any wild/excess cloth covering using a cutter. The neutral/white line and the wide claw/silver screw terminals are repeated. Twist the wire back into place, slide the plug case back into place, and screw the plug back together. Ta Da! Now this is a plug/wire combination that looks great! Now we will add the device that makes the on/off magic happen: the line switch. This switch is very similar to the SPT- 1 Rotary line switch used in SPT- A practice line set up in lesson 5 of my lamp class because it has a pointed spike piercing the hot wire of the line. It just has a rocker switch instead of a spin switch. This is also for a slightly thicker SPT-2 cord ( Read the first lesson of my lighting class to learn about different types of light lines) Therefore, it is very suitable to accommodate the increased thickness of the cloth surface. Unscrew and disassemble the line switch. Put the screws and the upper half on one side. Now you have to decide where you want to put the switch. For the pendant wire set, I like to put my approx 2\' from the plug, but you can put whatever you want along the 15\' wire. Depending on where you put the light, try to figure out what is the most convenient place for it. Once you decide where you want the line switch to go, UN. The 2 \"part of the rope is twisted. Use the box cutter to make a tiny cut on an external cloth cover on a wire --- This way you know which one is neutral/White and which one is hot/black. After determining which line is the hot/black line, cut it in half. Place the wires on the terminals that contain the side of the switch to see how many cloth covers you need to remove to expose the insulated wires below- Make it easier to stab the sharp head. Gently remove the necessary number of cloth covers using the box cutter. Put the wire back on the switch and trim the wire so that the wire will be fixed in place once it is pressed. Use a small flat head screwdriver to press the hot wire down on the perforated pointed. Like so. :)Yay! Now you can turn your lights on and off like the boss. ( Like a boss, he doesn\'t need to bend all the way to the plug to turn it off. . . ) Now that you \'ve made this beautiful set of ropes, it\'s time to test it! ! If you need to review how to do this, please refer to lesson 6 of my lighting class. Next, all that\'s left to do is screw on the cool stand, attach the stand to the jello mold, add a light bulb and hang it! Bulb recommendation: (low heat) The old Edison style LED bulb when installing the chandelier, the height of your suspension depends on how you use it. If it\'s going to go through the working face or dining table, you\'ll want to choose a height that will completely cover your work/dining area. This is usually from 28- 38 \"above the surface, remember that you will want a unobstructed view on the table/counter. If the area you are trying to illuminate is large, you may need two or three pendants to get enough light. The general rule of thumb is a 20-year-old pendant. 32 \"surface area, depending on how big the opening of the shadow is and how bright your bulb is. If it is placed on a sofa or lounge chair as a reading light, just make sure it is high enough that you won\'t hit your head when you get up and down. I recommend using standard ceiling hooks and \"u\" nails ( Or another piece of hardware cable). If you have a wooden ceiling you can use a simple screwin hook ( Right below) , But if you have a drywall/sheetrock ceiling, use a hook with a toggle bolt (below left). The \"U\" staple is to secure the wires in the corners of the walls and ceilings and to help lead the wires to the wall sockets. Once you have chosen a place, install a hook and figure out how high you want the pendant to hang, take a small zip tie and fix it around a small ring on the rope. The advantage of using a zip tie is that you can make it a little bit loose in order to make a slight height adjustment and then keep tightening after you put the pendant where you want it! Step 1 - A zipper tie, preferably a small one in whatever color, is the least noticeable. Step 2 - After you want the height of the pendant suspension minus the depth measurement of the suspension, make a small ring on the rope. Step 3 - Put a zipper tie around the area where the wires overlap. Step 4 - Tighten it so you can still adjust the wire. Step 5 - After confirming the height, cut off the extra zip tie. Step 6 - Hang your pendant! It\'s just the beginning of your exploration of the front of the lights, and you go boldly to places you haven\'t been before. If you like to learn lighting, you can also enjoy my other lighting instructions: 3 ways to make a table Light stripe floor Light dual socket pendant Light star Light Tree TopperLet.