12v led accent floor lamp.

by:Merttace     2019-11-23
Let\'s convert a dangerous halogen lamp to a safer 12 v LED focus light that can run from a battery that the solar battery charges, or whether you want to run it.
This should make it an eco-friendly, power-hungry, recyclable material and can be powered by a solar/wind energy rechargeable battery.
You can even take this camping with you and run it with a car battery.
It was really shocking to see someone wearing a dinner jacket and reading by the floor lamp in the middle of the woods.
I was forced to do this instructable, and actually, after I did this conversion twice, they had threatened me without recording it.
Another friend has asked me to change his desk lamp to LEDs.
My friend has been taking pictures behind me, recording the conversion of the web page.
So since I have another light and a digital camera on hand, I will record as much as I can for you.
Step 1: first go out and buy yourself a stylish and expensive halogen lamp. . .
Hold on, this is wrong.
Give me a minute when I go to gargle with Ivory soap. . .
OK, start by looking at something interesting on junk day first.
Do not have to be a floor lamp, the basic instructions here can also be used with a desk lamp or even a metal mint shell (
If you want a very small light).
On our last garbage day here, I found a beautiful brass floor lamp with a removable arm so I could use it on the table, instead of taking up the desktop, this is what I need for all the other mess.
Or, when I read a relaxing book, I can put it behind the chair.
But this 100 watt halogen lamp must be used.
I heard they called the dormitory torch.
If it falls off when it opens, it can easily ignite loose paper or carpet.
So, let\'s move on to the next build. . .
Pick up any tool you need, a screwdriver or two (
Philips, slotted, OJ vodka)
, Adjustable wrench, coffee, soldering iron, hammer, drill, grinder, File. . .
You see.
At this stage, you may be as careful as I am here to take everything apart and put the lights back together.
The aluminum reflector I will use again installs the LED plug-in.
Every good construction needs a good plan.
Let me discuss the plan.
My power supply uses 12 V and is easy to find around the world, so it\'s easy to find something customized.
I used 3 LEDs in series for each segment, saving resistance.
If you don\'t use these resistors, you burn out the LEDs.
There are two switches for this project, you may just want to use one, but I\'m going to use two different LEDs with a narrow beam high intensity LEDs in the center to get the spotlight effect, and a low-intensity LED ring for soft light.
The light emitting diode with soft light only uses 10 mA of the current, while the narrow beam is brighter and absorbs 20 mA.
So I have to figure out the balance resistance that is needed.
I found it online and you can also find it by looking for the \"LED serial calculator\", which is a calculator that can tell me what resistors are used for the three LEDs in series.
For simplicity, if you are using a similar LEDs, here are the required values: 120 ohms of 3X20 mA LEDs with a forward voltage of 3.
3v2 20 ohms of 3X10 mA led with a forward voltage of 3.
3 viam uses 5mm LEDs, they are round and have a ridge with flat sides.
The lead on one side of the LED is grounded, or the longer the lead is positive if you use the new LED.
With that in mind, let\'s move on to the next step.
Here we will start positioning your led into the plastic plug-in for your light.
But first of all, you have to say a word about the plastic you want to use.
It is good to have a ready sheet plastic supply on hand.
Personally, I found the vinyl siding easy to use.
It is easy to form with a pair of scissors, it is easy to drill holes and can shoot almost anything with glue.
If you know that a construction site is doing wall panels, maybe you can get some scraps that are usually thrown away.
But for those of us who live in a larger building area and don\'t see the building until it\'s finished, I have a suggestion.
The next time you go shopping at your local hardware store, you will see a sample of the color they provided to siding at checkout.
\"I brought a small pile of things home to my wife and asked her to approve, NUFU said.
In this project, I used two vinyl samples with the same color.
Normally I will use one to shape the corners to fit into the cone interior of the lamp, but here I have a ring that can be redesigned
Insert vinyl from the back.
As you can see in the picture, I drew a few boxes on vinyl for where I want to place LEDs, and I cut the scrap reflector section of the aluminum plug-in.
You don\'t need to use a square box, you can make a star pattern, a circle, a spiral, or even a random positioning.
But, try to remember that the more complex the pattern you make, the more difficult it is to connect the correct LEDs with the correct polarity.
I drill holes for all 36 LEDs, which is an internal square consisting of 4 segments of 3 LEDs and will be a narrow bright beam.
On the square outside, I have 24 LEDs, 6 on each side, or two segments of 3 LEDs on each side.
I should use the 5mm bit for drilling, but I don\'t have a rice bit, so I use a very close 7/32 bit.
Just a touch loose so I shot the LEDs into the hole with glue.
From the center, I positioned the LEDs so that all the forward leads were faced in the same way.
I also welded the required resistance on the front of each LED segment.
Once 4 segments are made inside, I weld both ends together so I have only one point where I can place wires for positive and negative lines.
On the outer square of the LEDs, I want to make it easier to identify the wires, so I make each corner positive and the middle of each side a ground point.
Once all the wires are connected, you should have only three wires attached to the lights.
You only need two wires unless you use one switch.
My light has two switches so I need two positive leads but there is only one ground.
As planned, all parts gather together for one ground lead.
As you can see from the picture, I cut off the reflector part of the aluminum ring.
This has to be careful as it is a very soft aluminum, but I checked it carefully with a file until it was smooth and then gently hammered flat again.
Now vinyl with all LEDs and wires can be shot in place with glue, passing through the entire outer edge for strength.
You might want to spray everything on the light source with glue.
Don\'t worry, these LEDs don\'t generate heat like the original halogen lamps.
Or they don\'t generate enough heat to melt hot glue.
Now that we have made the lamp head with all the wires needed, we can add it to the lamp body.
Here I have to apologize, I have not taken any photos of installing the switch to the body of the lamp.
I will make you imagine drilling/archiving/or no matter how you want to make or enlarge the holes on the lamp.
Do not enlarge the hole with C4, it will make the edge too rough.
Here, I used a special three-connector switch that should light up the duck mouth plastic switch outside when the switch is on.
So there is a third ground connector.
On a normal switch, you will not connect the ground to the switch.
If you are using a normal switch, then simply route it as planned in step 3.
I should mention something important at this point.
Safety and testing.
I have been welding during this construction and only burned twice.
I picked it up by mistake when using a normal soldering iron, just like you picked up a pen or pencil.
In this step, you can see a lighter, which is actually a miniature dingbenzene torch I welded on a wire far from a normal soldering iron.
Well, I use it when I have to weld a small iron in a large area that needs to be heated forever.
Once heated to the point of melting solder, it takes a few seconds for a large area of metal to cool down.
I forgot to go and remove the wires so I can make the next one.
Also in terms of safety, once all the wiring is done, I put the aluminum ring back on the lamp body.
But before I do that, I stick any protruding metal wire ends to the led with tape.
I mean, in this case, the wire to the switch, I\'m not sure if the switch has enough clearance to not press on the back of the LEDs.
For those who modify the plain desk lamp with a funnel head, you can glue the vinyl inside together to make sure the vinyl is centered so that the LEDs glow directly from the outside of the lamp.
Anyone looking at the photos will notice what I haven\'t done yet, with a 12 v power accessory adapter installed at the end of the wire.
However, you will notice that there is a red label on one of my wires.
So I will know which line is for sure.
I did a few things during the build but didn\'t record the constant testing I \'ve been doing.
Check a single clip with 12 v on several crocodile clips to make sure I don\'t have any bad led or worse if I connect an led back.
Through the test, I can make the change before the next step.
Once I tested the wire, I put on the red label to determine which wire is the positive line inside the lamp head.
Next I added the power adapter side but please wait. . .
It\'s midnight, so I\'m going to take a break for hot chocolate. . .
Once the plug is welded and shrink the package to protect, I have done it in addition to fine tuning the whole and taking pictures.
I have a good portable battery that I can plug into my 12 v device.
Here, I have finished the test of the lights, taking pictures.
Now is the time to consider adding.
There are a lot of instructions on steampunk because it\'s a brass lamp and it may need some mods, some wood accents, black paint design to make it steampunk.
I can add a carved wood crown in front of the lamp, maybe 1 m can be added to make it look better and cover the meter with wood.
Since the idea was hurt, I could have replaced vinyl plywood with a thin plywood.
Damn it.
Finally, I did hit the light out before someone asked me and made sure it drew 0.
3A is 3 at 12 V. 4 watts. YES!
I replaced the fire starter for 100 W with 3. 4 w led light.
This can save electricity.
More importantly, if, like me, you charge deep-cycle batteries with solar cells to run lights like this.
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